Why are there two legs (northern and southern) of the Trans Dinarica cycle route in Bosnia and Herzegovina, what can you expect from cycling in this part of the Balkans and what interesting things did we learn along the way.

This rugged, adventurous section of the Trans Dinarica cycling route is ideal for those seeking a true bicycle adventure while traveling through the Balkans.

Bosnia and Herzegovina lies in the heart of the Trans Dinarica. At the beginning of the planning, we decided that there should be two legs in this country. Why? We were able to connect Bosnia and Herzegovina with its two neighboring countries — Serbia to the east and Montenegro to the south — and thus the Trans Dinarica cycle route is now a full circle. At the same time, it was already clear that this country is so diverse that it will be worth spending a little more time in it. And we were right.

Trans Dinarica’s most adventurous section

After last year’s exploration of the ‘northern leg’, from the border with Serbia via Sarajevo to Livno, we have just completed the route from Livno through Herzegovina, Mostar and the mountains south of Sarajevo to the border with Montenegro. The GPS tracks are still being processed, but our impression is that this is one of the more adventurous sections of the Trans Dinarica cycling trail with a mixture of challenging, rolling terrain that mixes asphalt with gravel. In this part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, expect wonderful scenery, but also exhausting cycling routes. Sometimes, from morning to evening, you will encounter nothing but some remote farm, where a sign ‘jaja’ (homemade eggs) will invite you to stop and say ‘dobar dan’. But these are also the moments when you realize (again) how friendly, warm and hospitable the locals are and that they are excellent cooks.

People are coming back to live (and work in the outdoor tourism!)

On the other hand, we realized that outdoor tourism is developing. In the middle of wild Bjelašnica mountain, we slept in a comfortable new wooden cabin with a bicycle workshop in the basement, while in Mostar we met two active sportswomen who returned to Mostar to live – one from Slovenia, the other from Australia. Maybe the emigration trend is reversing? We hope so and believe that bike travel enthusiasts exploring the Balkans with Trans Dinarica can help contribute to this.

Go to Bosnia and Herzegovina physically fit, equipped for all kinds of weather conditions, but also with a heart longing for adventure and warm human relations. Read more about cycling Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Trans Dinarica cycling route here and see a detailed route map, tips, and information about the best spots to explore.

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Gallery of Trans Dinarica’s Bosnia and Herzegovina southern part:

On a few occasions, we’ve received the following question: “Does the Trans Dinarica cycle route come close to former minefields? Where?” This is a valid concern for cyclists who are planning to cycle the Balkans, especially across regions like Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, where remnants from the 1990s war may still exist. 

All the roads on our Balkan bike route have been in frequent use for many years, ensuring a safe and enjoyable cycling experience.

Let us be clear about this: if you stay on the Trans Dinarica route, there is no chance of danger from mines. This, however, doesn’t mean that a few areas crossed by the Trans Dinarica haven’t suffered from the war of the 1990s. In some parts of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, you will come across red signs reading “Mine! Zabranjen prolaz!” (Mines! Do not pass!) on the side of the road. In other places, there are also signs with maps where mined areas are specially marked (see the two photos below).

All roads on our Balkan bike route have been in frequent use for many years, so there is no fear of encountering a mine. But, also, to reiterate: in places where you see such signs, keep to the route. These are not the places to wander into the woods to pitch a tent.

Although we are strongly aware of this situation, we encourage cyclists not to focus on or emphasize the Balkan wars when communicating about the region or the Trans Dinarica cycling route. We encourage you to facilitate peace and focus on the nature and the people. We want to focus on the love of life, not the fear.

Cycling the Trans Dinarica cycling route has been more than just a project for me. In short posts on social networks, it is difficult to say or show why I like to participate in the creation of Trans Dinarica so much. Therefore, this time a slightly longer note about the project and why I believe our work has higher meaning.

Cycling the Balkans is the best way to get to know the essence of the region.

1. The unique charm of the Western Balkans

I simply love the countries of the Western Balkans: Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo, and Serbia. I traveled to some of these countries as a child, and I got to know them even better in the last decade guiding tourists from all over the world. People often have preconceived notions about countries along the route. These opinions are related to, for instance, the collapse of Yugoslavia, the 20th-century regime in Albania, and the conflicts from the 90s. But holding onto those judgments is passe. I’m not saying history should be forgotten. Far from it. But focusing on decades-old news clouds today’s Western Balkans, which is one of Europe’s most original regions.

2. Trans Dinarica as a tool for sustainable tourism

The Balkans, if we exclude the coast and a few other hotspots, have thus managed to avoid mass tourism. That’s good … but it means the region’s integrity is so fragile that we must be careful what and who we’re inviting to this pleasant wilderness. Care is necessary because, first, it is good for nature. Secondly, it is good for preserving authentic communities. And third, you will get to know the essence of the Balkans best on a bike powered by your own energy and curiosity. A tourist on a bus socializes with other tourists. A cyclist socializes with locals. And, cyclists leave almost no trace. No need for mega hotels that spoil the mountain views. A room in a private house or three square meters of land to set up a tent are just fine.

I believe the Western Balkans and the sustainable way of exploring new lands — cycling — were born for each other. After we explored the first part of Trans Dinarica, Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, I am even more convinced of this.

3. The perfect match for cycling enthusiasts

Trans Dinarica cycling route’s diverse terrain, from rugged mountains to peaceful valleys, creates a cycling adventure that is both challenging and rewarding. This route offers travelers a unique way to travel the Balkans with slow travel intention while respecting nature and engaging with local communities. Whether you’re cycling through Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, or any of the eight countries on this route, each stage offers an authentic and immersive experience.

Through my role as a content creator, copywriter, and enthusiastic cyclist, I am excited to see the Trans Dinarica bike route come to life. I encourage everyone, from seasoned cyclists to newcomers, to experience the magic of the Balkans by bike and embrace a sustainable way of travel that benefits both the traveler and the region.

Matevž Hribar, content creator, copywriter, cyclist, van driver

Traveling the Balkans, we continue to get surprised. We continue with the work in the field: late-night planning for the next day, getting up early, a hearty breakfast (of course, we are in the Balkans!), driving in a van combined with cycling, turning around, asking locals for directions, and looking for the best alternatives for cyclists. In between, we’re taking photos and filming until the evening, when we usually we reach the destination of the stage after sunset.

From wild Drina NP to lively Sarajevo

After we left Serbia — crossing the Drina River — and entered Bosnia and Herzegovina, we got to see a fairly unknown part of this country: Drina National Park, established only in 2017. We viewed the river both from the bank and from the nearly 1,000-meter-high edge of the canyon. This is wilderness in the truest sense. Apart from a local man carrying felled trees with his horse, a park ranger with a VW Golf 2, and no more than five cars (in two days!), we didn’t meet a soul. This will be a more adventurous part of the Trans Dinarica, which some — more accustomed to shops and hotels — would likely miss altogether.

The complete opposite, but no less exciting, was Sarajevo — a place we all love and return every chance we get. We come for tastes like burek, ćevapčići, baklava, and Bosnian coffee at Čajdžinica Džirlo. We also come for the handmade crafts, like coffee sets made by Abdulah Hadžić at Manufaktura. In the evening, we stopped in for some of the city’s best traditional food at the restaurant Žara iz Duvara. The lively city life was enjoyed by the whole team, but as soon as we left the traffic behind, we felt the essence of the Trans Dinarica return to the wilderness.

Reaching Livno, we concluded our first research expedition in the field. We will continue with the work, but until then, thanks to everyone who helped us along the way and to everyone who expressed interest in the wildest bicycle transfer through the countries of the Western Balkans via social media and e-mail. Let’s keep in touch!

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Photo Gallery:

Dear cyclists, adventure lovers … and Western Balkans devotees:

Gallery from the last few days: