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Trans Dinarica cycling route in Montenegro is complete

The Montenegrin part of the Trans Dinarica cycling route will be a real treat for all mountain-loving cyclists. While online maps can offer a preview, the reality of the terrain can sometimes surprise you, as we found during the planning of the Montenegro bike trail. It added a few extra kilometers and time to our journey, but the breathtaking landscapes and thrilling trails made it all worthwhile.

 

Cyclists riding the scenic road of Trans Dinarica cycling route in Montenegro.

Scenic, mountainous trails of Montenegro’s section of the Trans Dinarica cycling route are perfect for mountain lovers.

 

To explore Montenegro, we planned the month of May, when the snow in the highest areas is gone. As we learned later from the locals, this year’s winter (as in many other places in this part of Europe) was quite mild and therefore there were no large remnants of snow. However, we noticed how nature wakes up later than in the valley from which we had just come. Montenegro was really wonderful at this time of the year.

 

Cycling in Montenegro: mountains, mountains, and some more mountains

On this part of the Trans Dinarica cycle route, as the name suggests, you will be dealing with a lot of mountains. On the other hand, the country also has a beautiful, rugged coastline on the Adriatic Sea. But Trans Dinarica will mainly cross Montenegro’s mountainous part. When entering from Bosnia and Herzegovina, you first face a climb, but once you reach the Durmitor National Park, you find yourself in pure cycling romance. Rolling ups and downs, endless pastures with cows and horses, and snow-capped peaks in the distance. In any of the places where you will spend the night, especially in Žabljak, it is worth taking a day or two for hikes to mountain lakes, for cycling around the entire Durmitor ring (with no luggage), or for some other outdoor activities (rafting, canyoning, horse riding…).

It should be mentioned that while connecting Montenegro’s bike route to the east, trying to avoid the busy roads, we came across quite a few bad sections, which are sometimes marked as cycle routes – while we believe that a fully loaded bike packer will not be very happy on them. In the end, we found a nice, yet still steep road, which, we believe, will be enjoyable for everyone.

 

The Trans Dinarica bike tour through Montenegro is a dream come true for cyclists who love mountains. It offers everything – the rolling hills of Durmitor National Park, quiet, scenic roads, and a truly authentic Balkan bicycle adventure. If you want to know more about this section of one of Europe’s best cycling routes, you can learn more about it here.

 

Gallery of Trans Dinarica’s Montenegro part:

The research work of Trans Dinarica’s Bosnia and Herzegovina southern leg is completed

Why are there two legs (northern and southern) of the Trans Dinarica cycle route in Bosnia and Herzegovina, what can you expect from cycling in this part of the Balkans and what interesting things did we learn along the way.

 

Three cyclists cycling the rugged trails of Trans Dinarica in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

This rugged, adventurous section of the Trans Dinarica cycling route is ideal for those seeking a true bicycle adventure while traveling through the Balkans.

 

Bosnia and Herzegovina lies in the heart of the Trans Dinarica. At the beginning of the planning, we decided that there should be two legs in this country. Why? We were able to connect Bosnia and Herzegovina with its two neighboring countries — Serbia to the east and Montenegro to the south — and thus the Trans Dinarica cycle route is now a full circle. At the same time, it was already clear that this country is so diverse that it will be worth spending a little more time in it. And we were right.

 

Trans Dinarica’s most adventurous section

After last year’s exploration of the ‘northern leg’, from the border with Serbia via Sarajevo to Livno, we have just completed the route from Livno through Herzegovina, Mostar and the mountains south of Sarajevo to the border with Montenegro. The GPS tracks are still being processed, but our impression is that this is one of the more adventurous sections of the Trans Dinarica cycling trail with a mixture of challenging, rolling terrain that mixes asphalt with gravel. In this part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, expect wonderful scenery, but also exhausting cycling routes. Sometimes, from morning to evening, you will encounter nothing but some remote farm, where a sign ‘jaja’ (homemade eggs) will invite you to stop and say ‘dobar dan’. But these are also the moments when you realize (again) how friendly, warm and hospitable the locals are and that they are excellent cooks.

 

People are coming back to live (and work in the outdoor tourism!)

On the other hand, we realized that outdoor tourism is developing. In the middle of wild Bjelašnica mountain, we slept in a comfortable new wooden cabin with a bicycle workshop in the basement, while in Mostar we met two active sportswomen who returned to Mostar to live – one from Slovenia, the other from Australia. Maybe the emigration trend is reversing? We hope so and believe that bike travel enthusiasts exploring the Balkans with Trans Dinarica can help contribute to this.

Go to Bosnia and Herzegovina physically fit, equipped for all kinds of weather conditions, but also with a heart longing for adventure and warm human relations. Read more about cycling Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Trans Dinarica cycling route here and see a detailed route map, tips, and information about the best spots to explore.

Gallery of Trans Dinarica’s Bosnia and Herzegovina southern part:

How many paved roads and how many macadams can I expect on the Trans Dinarica cycling route?

What is the road-gravel ratio on Trans Dinarica? Does it run only on paved roads? How much macadam can I expect? This information also indirectly answers the question of what bike should you use to embark on (in our opinion) one of the most beautiful cycling routes in Europe. Let’s look at the data from our fieldwork.

 

Cyclists on the paved Trans Dinarica cycling route in Albania.

Riiders can enjoy diverse cycling terrains on the Trans Dinarica cycle route, with a varying road-gravel ratio across different stages.

 

When planning and researching the Trans Dinarica bike trail, we were guided by two main ideas: to ride away from established, busy routes and crowded tourist spots, and at the same time to make this unique Balkan route accessible to as many cyclists as possible. This perfect ratio is difficult to catch on every stage: sometimes you will not meet anyone for the whole day except for a surprised shepherd, and sometimes you will have to inhale some smelly exhaust from buses and trucks, which in the Balkans do not necessarily meet high ecological standards (it’s getting better… slowly). However, at this moment we can already offer you a fairly accurate answer regarding the surface under your wheels.

 

Expect about 80% road and 20% gravel

Roughly speaking, we can say that about 80% of the entire Trans Dinarica cycling route is asphalted, but of course, the ratio varies from stage to stage. So far, we have also recorded a stage with as much as 99% macadam (that’s in Croatian part of Trans Dinarica). Let’s add a subjective opinion that you have the feeling that there is more gravel when cycling – which is logical since you ride slower on macadam.

When we talk about unpaved surfaces, this mostly means well-maintained, hard macadam roads, which can also be passable by a normal car. There are also a few stages that contain sections with poorer macadam with larger stones. These are marked in the Trans Dinarica navigation packages.

 

Three Trans Dinarica cyclists enjoying gravel road towards Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The Trans Dinarica bike trail was designed to avoid busy routes and crowded spots for a more authentic Balkan travel experience.

 

Detailed info on the final map and in GPS navigation packages

In the Trans Dinarica map and GPS navigation packages, you can get all the data with detailed ratios for each stage of the route. Expect the longest gravel sections in Bosnia and Herzegovina (almost half), and the least in Montenegro and Kosovo (only two percent). Now you can already plan to buy or prepare a bike for your next unforgettable cycling adventure.

 

 

Gallery with some photos of different roads

What’s the situation with mines along the Trans Dinarica cycle route?

On a few occasions, we’ve received the following question: “Does the Trans Dinarica cycle route come close to former minefields? Where?” This is a valid concern for cyclists who are planning to cycle the Balkans, especially across regions like Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, where remnants from the 1990s war may still exist. 

 

Three cyclists on gravel bikes, riding the Trans Dinarica bike trail in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

All the roads on our Balkan bike route have been in frequent use for many years, ensuring a safe and enjoyable cycling experience.

 

Let us be clear about this: if you stay on the Trans Dinarica route, there is no chance of danger from mines. This, however, doesn’t mean that a few areas crossed by the Trans Dinarica haven’t suffered from the war of the 1990s. In some parts of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, you will come across red signs reading “Mine! Zabranjen prolaz!” (Mines! Do not pass!) on the side of the road. In other places, there are also signs with maps where mined areas are specially marked (see the two photos below).

 

All roads on our Balkan bike route have been in frequent use for many years, so there is no fear of encountering a mine. But, also, to reiterate: in places where you see such signs, keep to the route. These are not the places to wander into the woods to pitch a tent.

Although we are strongly aware of this situation, we encourage cyclists not to focus on or emphasize the Balkan wars when communicating about the region or the Trans Dinarica cycling route. We encourage you to facilitate peace and focus on the nature and the people. We want to focus on the love of life, not the fear.

 

Trans Dinarica navigation packages: maps, GPS tracks, POIs, stage descriptions and more

For those of you ready to jump on the bike, let us briefly explain the form the Trans Dinarica GPS navigation packages — with GPS or GPX tracks and Points of Interest, or POIs — will take. We want to be clear about the tools available when cycling through the eight countries of the Western Balkans.

 

Cyclists on gravel bikes checking the navigational data for the Trans Dinarica cycle route.

You will be using the Ride with GPS mobile app for navigation on the Trans Dinarica cycling route.

 

1. The Trans Dinarica route exists in digital format only.

Trans Dinarica cycling route will only be available in digital format. This extensive Balkan cycling route will not be marked on-site. Can you imagine how many signs would be needed to physically mark approximately 5,000 kilometers of trails? So, don’t expect signs at crossroads.

 

2. The general Trans Dinarica map and data.

The general map of the entire Trans Dinarica route across all countries is available free of charge. Each stage is presented with an official pdf map available for free download, showing route track, vertical profile, and basic technical info about the length and elevation. This way, you are able to see where the route leads and use it to plan your own cycling trip and navigate through the Western Balkans with ease  – with some ingenuity and more clicking, of course. But, to make the life of an adventurer easier … (see point 3)

 

3. Extensive Trans Dinarica GPS navigation packages.

Navigation packages for each of the individual countries are available for a small fee; for Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo, and Serbia. You can check the prices here: Navigation Pack. And there is a discount for everyone who chooses to buy the navigation package for the entire Trans Dinarica.

These fees associated with the Trans Dinarica bike tour navigation packages are for the route’s sustainability. The fees will be used to offset the cost of keeping the navigation packages and GPX tracks accurate and so that the trail is updated with local businesses that offer accommodations, food, and services. In short, we are committed to making a positive impact on communities across the region. You can find some idea about why we believe the cycle route has a positive effect on the local community in this story: Why do I believe in Trans Dinarica?

 

4. For the navigation, you’ll be using the Ride with GPS mobile app (or others).

After thorough research of the possibilities, we decided that the navigational package of the Trans Dinarica cycling route will be available on the Ride with GPS App, in the form of the so-called “RWGPS Experience”, the excellent performance of which we have already tested in practice. A free-to-use mobile app allows active turn-by-turn navigation without an internet connection after preloading the entire map. The process is fast, and easy, with plenty of display options and help along the way.

For those in favor of different mobile applications or special GPS navigational devices like Garmin, Wahoo, Hammerhead, etc., the navigational package, once purchased, will offer the possibility of downloading GPS data for active navigation with those devices or apps, too. To be precise – you can manually download GPX files from the RWGPS App (just tracks, no POIs or any other Experience content).

Even without using the RWGPS mobile App for navigation, you can still use the RWGPS Experience on your mobile device as a secondary source of maps, POIs, and itinerary information, since all these are accessible offline. We’re sure you’ll enjoy it.

 

Cases of using a mobile app Ride with GPS for navigation on Trans Dinarica cycling route.

Cyclists can download GPS tracks for navigation through the RWGPS app, or use the packages with other mobile apps.

 

What does the country-specific Trans Dinarica navigation package contain?

  • GPS track for the whole country.
  • Surface data (paved, unpaved).
  • Information on the height difference (altitude/climbs).
  • Useful POIs (warnings about important route characteristics, accommodations, inns, shops, bicycle workshops, natural and cultural heritage, …).
  • Descriptions of individual stages (interesting sites along the way, difficulty of cycling, specifics regarding accommodation …).
  • Information about the so-called hubs that you can use for easier logistics (connecting routes to major cities with airports, bus, and rail connections).

 

In short, the navigation package is informative enough that you should have no problems planning a cycling trip and navigating through the Balkans. This still means that you will be cycling in a foreign country in a ‘self-guided’ way, i.e. on your own. Please do not count on someone from our team to help you look for a place to stay in the middle of the Bosnian mountains at 9 pm. If you’re getting curious and want to know more about planning a long-distance cycling trip, check out our other articles for tips on cycling holidays in the Western Balkans, recommended gear, and more.

 

Cyclists on a wooden bridge in Albania, riding the Trans Dinarica cycle route.

Using detailed Trans Dinarica GPX tracks and navigation packages provides cyclists with useful POIs, route information, and surface data.

 

What about guided Trans Dinarica cycling tours?

For organised guided and self-guided tours or bike rental contact one of the official Trans Dinarica tour operators.

Cycling on Trans Dinarica: What about stray and shepherd dogs and wild animals?

This is another question that fills our e-mail boxes: “Which animals might we meet while cycling in the Balkans and can they be dangerous?” Put simply, there are a lot of wild animals on the Balkan Peninsula, including brown bears, wolves, foxes, deer, and wild boars. The Trans Dinarica cycling route runs most of its route through mountainous and less populated areas with exceptional biodiversity.

 

A Trans Dinarica cyclist riding pass a shepard dog in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Meeting stray dogs while cycling in the Balkans is normal. You can expect a lot of food begging from them, too.

 

It is also true that many shepherds in these lands help protect their animals in an old-fashioned but effective way – with dogs. ‘Tornjaks’, ‘sharplanins’, and ‘Karst shepherds’ are wonderful, big, and brave animals, but in principle, they are not dangerous to humans. However, they are carrying out their mission – guarding their ‘family’ (and the shepherd) – so caution and common sense apply. They might not understand you well if you ride your bike at full speed among the sheep …

 

Bears, wolves? We haven’t met any … yet

What can we say from our experience on the Trans Dinarica cycling route? On our research journey, we never once met a bear or a wolf, at most a roe deer (in Serbia), a rabbit (in Albania) and a deer (in Slovenia). But that doesn’t mean bears and wolves haven’t met (seen or at least smelled) us. Wolves are considered not to be dangerous to humans, but bears are dangerous if surprised or frightened, especially a female bear with cubs. If you meet a bear, do not run, or climb a tree (bears are better at running and climbing), but leave his territory as calmly as possible. In the case of bikepacking and camping in the wilderness, do not leave leftover food around the tent, the bear will smell it kilometers away.

You are much more likely to meet a shepherd with his sheepdogs (off-leash of course) on this Balkan travel route. This happened to us several times while exploring the Trans Dinarica, especially in Albania. Greet the shepherd nicely by raising your hands from a distance, get off your bike, and somehow agree if you can continue your journey in the direction (which may cross his flock). Do not try to pet the dogs, because these are not some spoiled city poodles, but beasts capable of warding off bears and wolves. In principle, these are calm, unobtrusive dogs.

However, we received information from a female cyclist who traveled solo through the Balkans and had several unpleasant encounters with dogs, fortunately without physical contact. Those of you who are afraid of dogs may be better traveling in a group. It’s also worth saying that the worst thing is to run away from the dogs, as this makes them even more emboldened. We recommend that you stop and place the bike between you and the dogs, and if necessary throw a rock towards them (not into them).

 

Goats crossing the road in Albania, cyclists are watching.

You are likely to meet shepherds with his sheepdogs while exploring the Trans Dinarica cycling route.

 

Feeding a stray dog can have consequences

Yes, it is also very likely that you will also meet a stray dog, especially in cities, but sometimes also somewhere in the middle of nowhere. From what we’ve seen, they’ll (terrified) move away on their own, or maybe at the most, they’ll come begging for their bite while you’re dining on your burek. But you can expect that if you give them food, they will follow you for kilometers (yes, it happened to us). In this case, expect a heartbreaking goodbye sooner or later.

So: enjoy cycling in the Balkans without fear and with common sense. You are far more likely to bring home a scratch from your own clumsiness than from an animal. And yes, first aid should be in the bag in any case. Check out our bikepacking tips and learn everything you need to know about cycling in the Balkans. Good luck and happy riding!

The furriest gallery of Trans Dinarica:

The Trans Dinarica Cycle Route is named Lonely Planet’s “Best in Travel” for 2024

The Trans Dinarica — the first and only cycle route linking all eight countries of the Western Balkans — has been named as one of Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel experiences for 2024. The renowned travel media company, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, will release the 2024 edition of their much-anticipated annual book spotlighting the planet’s most exciting destinations on October 24, 2023.

 

Three Trans Dinarica cyclists riding in Durmitor National Park in Montenegro.

The Trans Dinarica route averages about 50 kilometers per stage, follows quiet asphalt roads, forest trails, and bike paths.

 

The Trans Dinarica bike trail makes the dream of cycling across the Balkans, one of the most adventure-travel-rich corners of Southeastern Europe, a reality for the first time. The route, which is more than 4,000 kilometers, rolls across and connects Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo, and Serbia. Riders will now be able to tackle around 100 stages that prioritize responsible travel, culture, national parks, and UNESCO sites while bringing a sustainable economic engine to communities across the western half of the Balkan Peninsula.

 

Cycling across the Balkans on a  5,500-kilometer adventure

“From the beginning of the Trans Dinarica’s development until today, the idea is to give travelers a way to enjoy the region while moving safely and at their own speed,” says Jan Klavora, one of the route’s designers and a co-director at GoodPlace: a Slovenia-based, sustainability-travel-focused NGO that works with destinations to develop tourism products and strategies. “This region is perfect to discover by bicycle because of its hospitality and richness of heritage. We are proud and honored that Lonely Planet acknowledges this and has also made a priority of responsible travel.”

 

Trans Dinarica is designed for all cycling enthusiasts

The route, which averages about 50 kilometers per stage (day), follows quiet asphalt roads, forest trails, and scenic Balkan bike paths. The Trans Dinarica — supported by USAID’s Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE) Project and GIZ’s Sustainable Rural Development in Albania — was created to make it easy for cyclists of all abilities to discover the region on two wheels. To that end, visitors to the route’s website will receive basic information about the trail for free and then pay a nominal fee for all the Trans Dinarica GPX tracks and information about accommodations and services across the entire Trans Dinarica.

“We hope travelers take advantage of the Trans Dinarica cycle route so they can better enjoy themselves on bicycles,” continues Klavora. “But, more than anything, we hope people will feel the magic that we have felt while traveling in this way across the region.”

 

Trans Dinarica isn’t just a cycling route, it’s an invitation to explore the rich landscapes, cultures, and heritage of the Western Balkans. The route offers something for everyone, blending adventure with meaningful connections to the Balkan people and places. Ready to experience it for yourself? Download the Trans Dinarica GPX tracks, explore accommodation options, and find out more about the route.

Cycling in Albania: different, wild, and rapidly developing

Another Trans Dinarica field exploration is behind us. There were a lot of questions before visiting Albania. For two reasons: although all of us from the team had been to Albania before, it is the least familiar country to all of us. Secondly: even the Albanians themselves don’t know which road is still dirt and barely passable, which is under construction, and which may have already been paved – this is the speed at which a country that was very isolated from the rest of the world until the 1990s is changing.

 

Three cyclists on gravel bikes above Theth in Albania, as a part of Trans Dinarica Cycle Route.

Albania, a rapidly developing country with diverse roads and stunning landscapes, offers cyclists an ideal mix of unspoiled nature and new infrastructure along the Trans Dinarica cycling route.

 

Today, Albania, Trans Dinarica’s country no. 5, is developing at the speed of light, and if you were in Tirana, the capital with half a million inhabitants, a decade ago, you would hardly recognize it today. Progress can also be seen in the countryside, especially with many new roads and other infrastructure projects, and on the coast, where tourism is booming. But we at Trans Dinarica hold the red thread – the Dinaric Mountains and the less populated mountain regions, which means that we cycled to many less-visited places, making the bike route a prime spot for bike tours and a fantastic opportunity to cycle Albania. This also meant a bit more research work for us; we even had to swap our support van for an off-road pick-up truck for a few days.

 

Albania is perfect for cycling, and cyclists are perfect for Albania

This intertwining of unspoiled nature, living the old-fashioned life and on the other hand development (roads!) and openness of the country for tourism leads us to the conclusion: Albania is a perfect country for cycling, and cyclists are perfect guests for Albania. If you’re planning an Albania bike tour or exploring cross-border routes like the Trans Dinarica cycling route, you will be warmly welcomed by the locals. Everywhere we went, we were met with hospitality and genuine enthusiasm about the idea of a cross-border cycling route. Another interesting fact: unlike other Balkan countries, there is less meat on the menu, a lot of fresh and pickled vegetables, homemade cheese, eggs, and fish. And language shouldn’t be an obstacle either: young people speak English perfectly, older people… Well, if necessary, you will use pantomime. On the road, we met three ladies on gravel bikes from England, and they confirmed just that: that neither language nor vegetarianism is a problem.

 

Roads? Be prepared for everything

The roads… Hmm, the roads will be very diverse: from perfect, new asphalt through a mountain pass to macadam, on which you’ll be forced to push the bike uphill, while the traffic in cities like Tirana or Shkoder might be a little bit chaotic. The final decision on the route will be made after a complete analysis and in a way that makes connections with Montenegro and North Macedonia logical and simple. Albania, we are already looking forward to meeting again!

Curious about what makes cycling in Albania so special? Find all the details on the country’s scenic cycling routes, insider tips, and explore more about Albania on the Trans Dinarica cycling route here.

Trans Dinarica – Albania photo gallery

What time of the year should I cycle the Trans Dinarica? A few words about the weather in the Balkans.

“Which month is the best to cycle the Trans Dinarica?” is one of the most common questions we receive from cyclists. We are glad that you are showing such interest in the new Balkan long-distance cycling route. While the answer isn’t simple—much like the region’s ever-changing weather—we’ll try to at least roughly indicate when you should take time to plan your next bicycle adventure.

 

Three Trans Dinarica cyclists on gravel road in Durmitor, Montenegro.

Bike trails in Montenegro, such as those in Durmitor, are perfect for cyclists looking to escape the summer heat and enjoy the cooler, forested areas of the Balkans.

 

If you want a short answer to ‘When to cycle the Trans Dinarica?’ (and at the same time cover the whole route), the answer would be: from May to September. But since the route stretches for 5,000 kilometers along the Balkan Peninsula, where mountains rise over 2,000 meters not far from the coast of the Adriatic Sea (with a mild Mediterranean climate), the answer is not so simple. In Montenegro, on the extraordinary mountain plateau Durmitor, we were caught by snow already at the beginning of May, the same can happen in the mountainous part of Bosnia and Herzegovina or Albania.

On the other hand, parts of the route in the south of Slovenia, through most of Croatia, in the west of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and parts of Albania and Macedonia are perfectly fine even in March or November, while we don’t imagine cycling in these places in July or August when temperatures rise above 30 degrees Celsius. Then it is better to tackle the mountainous, forested part of the Balkans, where you can refresh yourself in streams, rivers, and lakes along the Trans Dinarica trail.

 

Three cyclists on gravel bikes in Slovenia, riding the Trans Dinarica.

The weather on the Trans Dinarica cycling route is diverse, ranging from snow in the mountains in early May to intense summer heat in lower areas, offering a unique experience across the Balkan trails.

 

The weather on the Trans Dinarica bike trail can be unpredictable and changes from year to year. For example, in Slovenia, 2022 was hot and dry, and a year later we had a lot, even too much rain. Not to mention the fact that cyclists have different criteria for what is (too) cold, what is (too) hot, and how many rainy kilometers we are prepared to cover.

We recommend checking the average temperatures of each area before your trip and then monitoring the weather forecast daily. In any case, pack both – a swimsuit and a rain jacket. It’s all part of the adventure. Good news: for anyone who will be using the navigation package, the weather forecast for the location is already included in the Ride With GPS app. We recommend that you monitor the forecast for at least three days ahead and adjust your cycling adventure if necessary. Check out our detailed route plan and don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter for more cycling tips to make the most of your Balkan cycling trip.

Food on Trans Dinarica: strong, meaty, but also fresh and local (tips for hungry cyclists)

One of the most exciting parts of cycling the Trans Dinarica cycling route is tasting local specialties. The Balkan peninsula offers a vibrant mix of Eastern, Central European, and Mediterranean cuisine, making each stop on this long-distance cycling adventure a culinary journey. The diverse and authentic dishes you’ll encounter vary depending on where you are on the peninsula and are as much a part of the experience as the stunning landscapes.

 

Cyclists enjoying traditional food in Slovenia.

Enjoy the fresh, authentic ingredients that reflect each country’s strong food culture and traditions along the Trans Dinarica cycling route.

 

Vegetarian and vegan options along the Trans Dinarica

On the mainland, there is a lot of meat and freshwater fish, with various stews on the menu, while closer to the coast of the Adriatic Sea, of course, there will be more seafood next to the meat. The good thing about the food offering is that it’s very authentic – the locals just don’t accept Western fast food (because they have their own, although, of course, you’ll find a ‘happy clown’ in the bigger cities). Downside… Well, there isn’t a downside really, except … for vegans. Honestly: vegetarians will be fine, although the lost calories will have to be replaced mainly with cheese, spinach, or potato ‘burek’ (pie), while vegans, will have to be creative. Well, you can always order a ‘shopska salad’ without grated cheese, a ‘lepinja’ bread (which it shouldn’t be heated up on a plate next to the roast meat) and fresh vegetables and fruit. Don’t even try, they probably don’t know tofu and seitan. Although we were also positively surprised in Sarajevo, more precisely in the Bosnian restaurant Žara iz Duvara, where the owner tries to get the guests to try something other than cevapcici and burek.

 

Experience authentic Balkan cuisine

Another good thing is that the ingredients for the food are often fresh, even so fresh that you may see from the terrace of the restaurant how the chef went to the tank to catch fresh trout, or that the owner of a family stay will gather most of the ingredients for dinner right in her garden.

When we explore the terrain, we usually have a hearty breakfast (it’s usually classic eggs, salami, cheese, bread, and some other fries, maybe peppers and tomatoes), then we spend the day with some yogurt, burek, preferably baked under the bell, and fresh fruit. For dinner we treat ourselves to something stronger; grilled meat, trout, and various soups are excellent, for example ‘pasulj’ (bean soup) or ‘begova corba’ (chicken soup).

 

Tips for eating along the route

  • Hint no. 1: Take time and don’t complicate too much.
  • Hint no. 2: Don’t let them get you full to their standards. If there are four at the table, there will probably be enough soup for a starter and then a mixed meat plate for two. You can still make up for it with dessert.
  • Hint no. 3: when the house offers it, eat something other than grilled meat, otherwise you may return from the Balkans, even after a cycling tour, with a few kilos more.

 

Dobar tek! (Bon Appetit)

What kind of bicycle for the Trans Dinarica? Gravel, touring or MTB?

“Can I explore the Trans Dinarica cycling route through the Western Balkans with a loaded touring bike? Or do I need something more off-road oriented?” is another common question that you were curious about. Here’s the short answer:

 

Two Trans Dinarica cyclists at the Black Lake in Durmitor, Montenegro.

The diverse paths of the Trans Dinarica cycling route wind through terrain that invites all types of riders.

 

Trekking or touring bikes, some call them hybrid or fitness bikes, will be very useful, and an enduro or cross-country bike can also be an excellent choice. We would only advise against folding bikes, downhill bikes, and road racing bikes. Although, you know, where there’s a will, there’s a way 🙂

We use gravel bikes for routing because they are fast on the road and relatively good on macadams. Above all, they are an excellent compromise because we don’t need a lot of luggage for our research work – a support van helps us with that.

 

Packing for the Trans Dinarica

When cycling a long-distance bike route, as far as luggage (and weight) is concerned, we advise you to take only the most essential things with you, as you will pass by the market or store almost every day (every other day for sure). What is necessary and how many extra kilograms should be carried on bicycles, opinions differ so much that it is difficult to draw a line between what is an acceptable weight and what is decidedly too much. Just be aware that sometimes roads like this await you:

 

Cyclist on a gravel road in mountains of North Macedonia, riding the Trans Dinarica cycle route.

Cycling through the Balkans, riders will encounter a mix of gravel roads and natural landscapes, making it a unique exploration of the Balkan Peninsula’s diverse terrain.

 

How much asphalt and gravel is there on the way?

Roughly 80% of the Trans Dinarica cycling route is asphalted, but the ratio of asphalt to gravel varies by stage. In some sections, like the Croatian part of the route, we’ve recorded stages with up to 99% macadam. Though most of the unpaved roads are well-maintained and easily passable, the experience of cycling on gravel often feels more significant since the slower pace on macadam makes it more noticeable.

When it comes to unpaved surfaces, cyclists can expect mostly well-maintained, hard macadam roads, which are accessible even by standard cars. However, some stages feature rougher terrain with larger stones, which are marked in the Trans Dinarica navigation packages for better route planning and preparation. Discover what kind of terrain you can expect as you travel through each Western Balkan country on this adventurous cycling route.

How hospitable are the locals in the Balkans?

Traveling through each Balkan country is always multifaceted; we experience it ourselves, and we are surrounded by nature, settlements, locals, animals … After our last cycling trip in Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, we believe that meeting people—locals who have been cultivating the Balkan soil for decades—is a more important component than in the case of traveling through more touristic countries. In this article, we will share one day of our journey to highlight the deep sense of hospitality that makes Balkan travel truly unique.

 

Locals making rakija in Serbia while traveling the Balkans.

Locals might generously offer you some homemade meals, coffee, and rakija, and welcome travelers like family at every stop along the cycling tour.

 

A Serbian breakfast to remember

Our first stop on the Serbian section of Trans Dinarica was the small town of Sjenica. “Whenever you want! If it’s at 7:00 a.m., let it be at 7:00 a.m.,” answered the owner of a house, in which she rents out a few rooms this year when asked when we can have breakfast. When I went to prepare the bikes for the next trip in the morning, at 6:40 she was already walking from one kitchen to another (outside) kitchen. Inside she was putting different kinds of cheeses and pickled vegetables on plates, outside she was frying ‘uštipci’ (a kind of fried bread) and fresh green peppers, and under the tablecloth, freshly baked homemade bread was cooling. At 6:58, the table was so full that we couldn’t finish it. But she wrapped up some uštipci, cheese, and some dried meat for us to go on our way. Here, we had lunch.

 

Afternoon coffee in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Early in the afternoon, there were signs of a storm coming from the west. We were late with the day’s plan, a little earlier we found ourselves on a path we wouldn’t have liked to see under a five-and-a-half-meter van. Slowly, it worked. But the scene before the rain is fantastic; we are on a high plateau, the Albanian and Montenegrin mountains can be seen in the distance, covered with snow, and we are in the screaming green mountains, overgrown with juniper and pine and spruce. We MUST take some photos and videos here! We stop near a lonely house, prepare the camera and walkie-talkie, and start working. If I wasn’t really in a hurry because of the coming rain, I would first go and ask if I could park at the house, but … A minute later, when the cyclists were already moving away, a lady greets me from the porch and asks if we want coffee. Oh, please, thank you!

By the time the shots are finished and the bikes are stowed back in the van, the house already smells of strong coffee, and there is sparkling water, some candy, and slices of dried beef on the table. We talked about life in these remote places, about where the five daughters moved to, how they are waiting for a better road, and how many cyclists pass by here. They refused to accept the payment.

 

Evening rakija and a table full of delicious food

In the evening, just a few kilometers before our last checkpoint of the day, we wanted to see the possibility of accommodation in a small village. An elderly man was outside making rakija and called his son from the house to ask for information about rooms. After a short conversation right through the windows of the van, we decided to stay right here, in the village. And here – again, in a few minutes, in addition to the promised clean beds, the table was full of homemade goodies, bread, meat, and fresh vegetables. And of course, glasses for rakija as we finished driving for the day.

 

Cycling any part of the Trans Dinarica bike trail, you will find that locals go above and beyond to make you feel welcome. From offering coffee to packing you extra food for your ride, the people you meet will be a major highlight of your trip. Plan your next bike adventure with us, stay updated with the best tips for exploring the Trans Dinarica, and sign up for our newsletter to stay connected.

 

 

Photo gallery:

Serbia’s Section of the Trans Dinarica Cycle Route is Complete

The Serbian stages of the Trans Dinarica cycle route have been researched and mapped, and are now ready for cyclists to discover more about this beautiful Western Balkan country. This section offers an unforgettable journey through Serbia’s stunning landscapes and is perfect for those looking to experience the country’s natural beauty and rich culture while cycling the Trans Dinarica.

 

Cyclists on the Trans Dinarica route in Serbia, looking at Uvac Canyon.

Uvac Canyon is a must-see when traveling to Serbia.

 

What can cyclists expect on the Trans Dinarica in Serbia

The Serbian part of the Trans Dinarica includes seven main stages (with several alternate possibilities) and nearly 350 kilometers with around 800 meters of daily elevation change. The route travels across both paved and unpaved stretches — providing both seasoned and new cyclists diversity and access to communities throughout the region.

Starting near the town of Tutin, in the far south of Serbia, the route pedals through the mountainous Sandžak Region and then continues north and west past UNESCO sites and protected areas such as the Tara National Park along the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. From Tutin, Serbia’s Trans Dinarica heads to Novi Pazar before heading northwest to Sjenica and the Special Nature Reserve Uvac. The trail then rolls toward the resort town of Zlatibor and the beautiful, ethno-architecture tourism center in and around Mokra Gora, perched in the Dinaric Alps. The route finishes its Serbian section along the banks of the Drina River in the town of Bajina Bašta.

 

A cultural corridor through the Western Balkans

The Trans Dinarica bike trail is the first and only cycle route to connect all eight countries of the Western Balkans. The route — linking Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Serbia — visits national parks, UNESCO sites, villages, and diverse points of interest. A cultural corridor as well as a bicycle itinerary, the Trans Dinarica provides a way to discover the region and its traditions with a slow-travel intention. The route creates a main backbone bicycle trail for the entire Western Balkans and encourages local travel operators to utilize the Trans Dinarica as a responsible tourism engine.

The process of the Trans Dinarica’s creation in Serbia actually began in early 2022 when the GoodPlace team, a Slovenia-based NGO that creates sustainably minded trails and routes, began working with country experts to create a virtual blueprint. The next step was to test this blueprint “on the ground” to make sure, among other considerations, that all the stages — surfaces, inclines, distances — met the team’s high expectations of safety and navigation ease. After traveling to Serbia in May and June 2023, the route is now fully prepared and available for those looking to cycle Serbia and experience a Serbia bike tour like no other.

 

Learn more about cycling the Trans Dinarica in Serbia here.

Live from Serbia’s section of Trans Dinarica: We love it. Honestly.

Dear cyclists, adventure lovers … and Western Balkans devotees:

The planning of the Trans Dinarica Cycle Route — the first cycling route to connect all eight countries of the Western Balkans — has officially started. After many months of office research, studying maps, dissecting the terrain, browsing through memory, and coordinating routes and sites with local experts, we are now ready to bring this unique cycling tour to life. This trail is designed to showcase the natural beauty, culture, and history of Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo, and Serbia.

Our trail development fieldwork began along the Serbian and Bosnian sections of Trans Dinarica, and, after a few days, we can report the following brief impressions:

  • Although we have all visited Serbia many times, the country, its south and west, stunned us. It’s hard to say what’s more exceptional: the nature or the hospitable locals.
  • The Trans Dinarica is exactly what we wanted: bicycle exploration of these incredible countries on forest paths and quiet roads as possible, and at the same time getting to know the local culture, history, and cuisine.
  • The type of tourism mentioned in the previous point (yes, even cycling is tourism) is exactly what the Trans Dinarica intends to present: An authentic, pure, original, enriching, inspiring window into beautiful culture.

Keep up with us for more updates on our Facebook and Instagram pages. We also invite you to sign up for our email newsletters, in which we will inform you about the continuing development of Trans Dinarica. The final result — a cycling route through Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo, and Serbia — will be ready in July 2024.

We can’t wait to see you on the Trans Dinarica.

Gallery from the last few days:

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This web page was produced by Good Place and is developed with the support of the American people through the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) and the regional Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE) Project.
The contents are responsibility of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of USAID or the United States Government.