Albania

The first day of the Albania bike tour starts from Gusinje, an inviting town sitting on a horseshoe bend along the Vermosh River. This is a great place to relax and enjoy the scenery as you leave Montenegro and enter the first stages along Albania’s section of the Trans Dinarica. Surrounded by the Prokletije Range of the Dinaric Alps and at the confluence of multiple rivers and streams, the area’s warm welcome will have you enjoying your afternoon with great food and happily going over your maps to get ready for your continued epic journey.

Take some time to enjoy Gusinje’s bazaar. Though it is not the center of commerce that it once was, there are wonderful places to eat and enjoy the old architecture. Sitting on the front row of Prokletije National Park and with a history that dates back to at least the Bronze Age, the town is a gem of ancient culture.

From Gusinje, the Trans Dinarica cycle route heads west and parallels the Vermosh River as it crosses the Albanian border. After entering Albania, the route continues on a moderate but steady climb on asphalt. This is a good stage to find your pedaling legs and enjoy relaxed riding on quiet roads.

As the Trans Dinarica takes riders into the famous Albanian Alps, a new sense of cycling adventure starts to settle in for cyclists. The hospitality remains the same: warm, welcoming, and accommodating. But the excitement of starting the first of a dozen stages in Albania — rolling south and east along the Dinaric Alps and pedaling toward North Macedonia and Kosovo will be palpable. The day’s magical ride — full of the promise of a new country to discover — ends in the Albanian town of Tamarë.

Tamarë is a completely ’boutique’ village with cobblestone streets and flagstone squares encircled by mountains. The renovated settlement, a wonderful place to stay with multiple accommodation options, straddles the Cem River.

This Balkan bike route immediately sends cyclists face to face with some of Albania’s (and the Balkans) greatest hits. The route first takes riders on a journey through the peaks of the Albanian Alps, which stand majestically all around. As you slalom through this incredible geography, you’ll enjoy subtle climbs and descents. The biking tour itinerary then rolls to one of Europe’s most historic cities: Shkodër.

The cycling route begins in Tamarë, which sits close to the Montenegrin border. Tamarë is a perfect place to enjoy the awe-inspiring sites of the Albanian Alps. This is also a wonderful place to have a meal and relax at an outdoor table on the town’s often-overlooked town’s cobbled streets. From this idyllic spot, you’ll ride south toward Lake Shkodër, the largest lake in Southern Europe.

Established in the fourth century BC — and a former Illyrian capital — Shkodër is a destination worth staying over for more than just one night. On the shores of Lake Shkodër, you’ll find lots of ways to enjoy your time. There are several key sites to visit while in the city. The Rozafa Castle stands guard over the city and has been used since the Illyrians. Lake Shkodër (or Skadar) is the largest lake in the Balkans and a visit to its shores is filled with cultural discoveries. The Marubi National Museum of Photography provides a nice way to learn more about the area’s incredible and artful heritage. The Ebu Bekr Mosque is an 18th-century place of worship and a must-see for anyone coming to Shkodër.

After leaving the city of Shkodër, our bicycle adventure continues for nearly 60 kilometers on paved, undulating roads until reaching the ferry taking cyclists through the Drini Canyon for about 33 kilometers from Koman to Fierza. This is one of the most beautiful canyons anywhere along the Trans Dinarica and one that shouldn’t be missed.

There are a few points that are important to note and make clear to cyclists:

• Cyclists should wake early to get to the Koman ferry stop because there is only one departure from Koman to Fierza per day at 9 a.m. (with two fairly small boats leaving at the same time). Don’t be surprised by the possible chaos when buying tickets and boarding the ferry and be sure to check the schedule again – it may have changed since we were there.
• The ferries arrive at Fierza at 11:30, and one of them returns to Koman at 13:00, arriving at 15:30. 
• With around 1.000 meters of total ascending, it will take an average cyclist (with packs) about four hours to get to the ferry stop.
• Don’t be surprised if your bike will be parked in such a way that you cannot access it during the ferry ride. The ship’s staff are great at playing Tetris.

After a spectacular ferry ride on the Drin River to Fierza, cyclists will pedal a couple of flat paved kilometers along the Valbona River. The end of this Trans Dinarica Cycle Route stage is in the settlement of Dushaj i Poshtëm.

For cyclists who want to see the famous Valbona Valley National Park (a site not to be missed when traveling in the region, known to have one of the best cycling routes in Europe), the Trans Dinarica team laid out this extra one-way stage. This is a magnificent, 41-kilometer gradual climb on asphalt that takes riders from Dushaj to Valbona. Likely a day most won’t forget, we encourage adventurers to make the most of their time in this picturesque corner of the Western Balkans.

For many, Valbona is synonymous with this corner of Albania. The 80-square-kilometer national park supports a wide range of flora and fauna. It also supports a healthy adventure travel sector with people from around the world coming to hike, climb, and cycle between the grand mountain peaks found here.

We leave it up to you to decide whether you will make the cycling trip to Valbona in one day (it can be quite tiring), two or three days, with a possible hike in the heart of the Albanian Alps. If you don’t want to cycle the same road twice, you can also skip the trip to Valbona and continue to stage no. 4.

This Trans Dinarica’s stage, from the riverside community of Dushaj i Poshtëm, is another jaw-dropping ride through the foothills of the Albanian Alps. With Maja Jezercë Peak and Valbona Valley National Park to the north, the Trans Dinarica travels south and east. If it wasn’t obvious before, travelers will now feel the power of being in the middle of epic Albanian Alps adventure cycling.

The day will be long but beautiful. It starts by hugging the Drin River before rolling away from the water’s edge and through lost-in-time villages. In total, there are some 2.300 meters of climbing spread across 85 kilometers on entirely paved surfaces. The upside of this long day is that it puts the trail (and the cyclist) in a position to have easier and shorter days ahead as more accommodations appear in larger villages.

From the community of Shëmri — the previous day’s stage ending — the Trans Dinarica follows a classic day of Albanian cycling. The route is on rolling terrain that climbs and descends in almost equal amounts on a road that is lightly trafficked.

Cycling today will be all about giving in to an Albanian style of travel. Easygoing for much of the day, you’ll pass through villages, communities, and settlements where you can find good food and a chance to take a break with a cup of coffee, but not much more. Not to worry. There is enough civilization to be helpful in case you need water or a break. But, you will find the simple enjoyment of feeling as if you are breaking new ground with the itinerary. Luxuriating in the freedom of discovery fueled by your own power.

After rolling up and down for much of the day, the bike route descends towards the final destination of Kukës, a city that dates back millennia. There will be ample spots for food, any parts necessary for the bike, and accommodation. This is also a critical stage before the Trans Dinarica begins its turn south, parallelling the Kosovo and then the North Macedonia border.

A relatively ‘new’ city by modern standards, Kukës will be a revelation for many travelers. In a perfect position for adventure addicts, Kukës sits near the base of Mount Gjallica and is wedged between the Dinaric Alps, the Sharr Mountain Range, the Korab Mountains, and reservoirs and Fierza lakes created by the convergence of the Drin, White Drin, and Black Drin Rivers. In reality, the history around the area of Kukës dates back thousands of years and was the site of Illyrian settlements. With the relatively short stage to get here (and another relatively short stage today), take the time to visit some of the city’s sites and enjoy re-stocking for your adventure.

After leaving Kukës, cyclists will parallel the Black Drin River before heading into the hills with rolling roads — quiet and beautiful and perfect for cycling. If there is a ‘difficult’ aspect to this day, it is in the fact that there is a fair amount of climbing. For the most part, however, this is a great day to find your stride. The route comes near the Black Drin again and then veers southeast along the Bushtrica River. Continue through the villages of Lusen and Lapa, where you will find plenty of places to eat, drink, and even sleep.

At approximately the 28-kilometer mark, the Trans Dinarica cycling route takes its last turn south with a gradual climb over the next seven or eight kilometers into the settlement of Matranxh, where you can toast another day of fantastic pedaling in one of Europe’s most beautiful spots. Raise a glass with Mount Korab soaring high in the distance, just to the south and east.

A good day to celebrate the challenging nature of the last week of cycling the Balkans, you’ll enjoy one of the most beautiful stages — even as you’re getting ready for the next exciting adventure that’s about to start. This stage is a little easier than several of the previous stages, so just roll with it and enjoy the scenery. From Matranxh, the Trans Dinarica starts from a relatively high elevation of nearly 1.150 meters. From there the Albanian cycling route is rolling with short climbs and descents to keep the day interesting. The cycling track then undulates as it drops in elevation for the rest of the ride. Over the course of the entire stage, cyclists will steadily descend to just above 500 meters. The entire day is on paved roads.

This Trans Dinarica stage from Matranxh to Peshkopi takes riders through a nice gorge, and green valleys with poplars, and promises some incredible views. There are exciting downhills — some of which are quite long. The day ends in Peshkopi, which is a special place. The local market is a must and provides travelers with a wonderful feel of the area’s character. Like so many places in the region, Peshkopi is an ancient town. Its name is derived from the word for bishop. For dinner, ask for the traditional local dish ‘jufka’, as they call a dish made from homemade egg pasta with meat, usually chicken.

If you have time, you can indulge in another sport on your Albania bike tour. In Peshkopi and its surroundings, you can go rafting or hiking. The nearby mountains are also perfect for ski touring, but you probably won’t be there at the right time of the year for that.

Leaving the beautiful and easygoing town of Peshkopi, the Trans Dinarica continues due south as we pedal closer and closer to the North Macedonian border and Lake Ohrid. At this point, cyclists have gotten into a good rhythm with rolling hills and majestic sites. This is the heart of the Western Balkans — both geographically and culturally. The stage begins with a gentle climb that starts from around 650 meters and rolls slowly up to about 800 meters over the course of approximately 8,5 kilometers. The route passes through several villages as it parallels the Black Drin River for the early part of the ride. It will then roll through the larger village of Maqellarë with National Park Mavrovo just across the border in North Macedonia. The itinerary takes cyclists directly along the banks of the Black Drin (Drin Zi) as it widens.

Almost half into this stage from Peshkopi to Sebisht, the route turns to gravel cycling terrain. The quality of the gravel will change regularly from very good to less so. The first 14 kilometers or so of that gravel section climbs before descending (also gravel) into Sebisht. Though there are hard elements of this day’s ride, this is a beautiful stage and worth the climbs and the changing surfaces. In the village of Sebisht, take a moment to relax and disconnect among the green fields in the rolling foothills. Like many places in the Balkans, it won’t seem very busy — because it is not. What it does have is beautiful farms, animals, and friendly locals.

After a nice morning of enjoying Albanian coffee in the rolling farmland and the foothills that hang between pathways leading to the Dinaric Alps to the west, Mount Korab to the north, and Galičica Mountain, Jablanica Mountain, and the Shar Mountain Range to the east, get ready to leave this idyllic village of Sebisht. This is the last full Albanian stage along the Trans Dianrica cycle route. If it’s not too early for lunch (you are a cyclist, a good portion of calories is always welcome), treat yourself to excellent farmed trout at the Trofta Borove restaurant along the way.

For those cyclists with tired legs, rejoice in the fact that most of this stage is spent on a steady descent. After climbing for around 350 meters over the first nine kilometers, nearly all of the final 25 kilometers is a rolling downhill ride. Worth noting: almost two-thirds of this stage is on gravel. Finally, huh? Who would have thought that Albanian roads would be mostly paved?

Today’s Trans Dinarica stage ends in the town of Librazhd. You will be in a state of transition here — between countries, cultures, and changing landscapes. In the mountains and just a few kilometers from one of the world’s most famous lakes (Ohrid), you’ll have time to enjoy the sights and historic marvels in this pretty town on the edge of Shebenik-Jabllanica National Park, which rests on the border between Albania and North Macedonia.

The final stage of cycling inAlbania starts in Librazhd, Albania, and ends in Ohrid, North Macedonia. The picturesque town sits on the edge of Shebenik-Jabllanica National Park, which rests on the border between Albania and North Macedonia. The nearly 40.000-hectare park is surrounded by glacial lakes, crisscrossed by rivers, and is the habitat for wolves, bears, lynx, and eagles. From Librazhd, the Trans Dinarica begins a steady climb heading east. Along the way, there are side roads and state roads, but cyclists should be warned that there is more traffic along this road than they are used to from the rest of the Albanian part of Trans Dinarica while on the way to Urakë, which is positioned just before the western shore of Lake Ohrid. On this 41-kilometer stretch of the cycling route, the road climbs 700 meters.

The second half of the route from Urakë becomes much quieter, with excellent asphalt. After the border crossing between Albania and North Macedonia, there is a seven-kilometer descent to Lake Ohrid (330 meters below). Through the small town of Struga, cyclists will take the bicycle path along the water.

One of the highlights of any journey around the Balkans, the tectonic Lake Ohrid, one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe, is rare in the fact that it was inscribed as a UNESCO site for both natural and cultural reasons. Take the time to visit one of its many historic churches, eat some of the best fish you’ve tried in a while, and toast your fellow cyclists with a glass of wine to celebrate your ride across Albania and into North Macedonia.

For those taking this alternative cycling route, Albania’s first full stage of the Trans Dinarica is a perfect combination of Albania’s jaw-droppingly beautiful geography and the moderate level of difficulty one can expect on several of the days. The day begins in Tamarë, which is a completely ’boutique’ village with cobblestone streets and flagstone squares encircled by mountains. The renovated settlement, a wonderful place to stay with multiple accommodation options, straddles the Cem River.

Leaving Tamarë, the Trans Dinarica bike trail heads south in the direction of Lake Shkodër. The first climb along the magnificent SH20 road starts about seven kilometers into the ride. Cyclists will soon reach and remain at an elevation of about 750 meters until starting a five-kilometer descent at about the 25-kilometer, halfway point across the stage.

The route makes a hard left turn — heading back north and east — and then begins a gradual but regular climb. The ascent takes cyclists through the villages of Zagorë, Dedaj, and Ducaj on the way to the pleasant mountain village of Bogë with 2.694-meter Maja Jezercë, the highest peak in the Dinaric Alps constantly rising to the north and framing your panorama. The dramatic landscape is appropriate as you prepare for the next stage using Theth National Park as your pivot point.

The town of Bogë is a classic headquarters for mountain bicycle adventures in the Albanian Alps. More and more, people are trading in their hiking boots for bicycles, and you will see this when you enter the village. There are also a few places to eat, enjoy a coffee and sleep. This stage from Bogë will have cyclists surrounded by beauty from the beginning to the end. The day’s ride to Theth is divided almost exactly in two. The first half is a constant climb of nearly 12 kilometers followed by a 13-kilometer dynamic descent.

Take the time to enjoy your day as you make the relatively short bike ride through the magnificence of the legendary Albanian Alps. Suggestion: Start early from Bogë so you can also take some extra time to discover the village of Theth and its surroundings. After enjoying the sights, be sure to eat well and get a good rest. The next day will be an incredibly fun and quite challenging stage.

One of the highlights when traveling Albania is a trip to Theth National Park. You’ll understand why within moments after cycling into the village of Theth, where a collection of restaurants and guesthouses are wedged between peaks along the crystal river. Our suggestion is to arrive early in the village so you can take in the sights: the Blue Eye, a waterfall-fed pool; the four-century-old tower; and the 19th-century Theth Church.

Be aware that the village and the national park are much more accessible than in the past. This is something you’ll also feel immediately — with the increase of visitors here over the last years because of paved roads and the publicity the country has received. The upside: people are interested in nature and this beautiful area of Europe. The downside: this is a very fragile environment and the growing numbers can be trouble if not properly managed.  Pat yourself on the back for making the good and sustainable choice to travel by bicycle.

The bike route itself — from Theth to Mali i Shoshit Pass — is quite difficult. This needs to be made clear. Though possible for some, it will be too challenging for others. After a fairly relaxed six-kilometer descent, the route becomes technical (unpaved) for the rest of the stage. From the 15,5-kilometer mark (and after crossing a bridge over the Shala River), the riding becomes harder with gravel that should be undertaken only by expert adventure cyclists. This is also where the climb begins and will continue to the Mali i Shoshit Pass. Also, don’t expect too much at the stage finish – there is only a very simple cafe and restaurant.

All this is to say: This stage is not for all cyclists. Be warned that heavily loaded bicycles will have a VERY hard time here. From here, if a rider feels the need to go back and rejoin the route, do so. Please make good decisions about your preparedness. From Theth, you can go back the same route to the village of Zagorë and then connect to the route to Koplik. At this point, one can join the southern route to Shkodër. Then, 15 kilometers after Shkodër, enter the main route again.

This is another Albanian cycling stage that demands nerves — and the right gear to correctly attempt a big gravel ride. The vast majority of this day is a descent, and about half of that descent will be on challenging gravel. If you have made it this far from the previous day, you will logically continue to Shkodër on this route. However, it is worth repeating that there is an alternative route from Theth that allows less-confident riders to avoid these two technical stages that only the most adventurous cyclists will enjoy.

After the first half of the stage, which descends on gravel, the bike trail levels out. From here you will roll along paved roads with low traffic. The Trans Dinarica is in full bloom here. After connecting villages, and mountain passes and being surrounded by incredible geography, the stage pedals into the beautiful and bustling city of Shkodër.

This stage, from Shkodër, passing Mjedë due south to Laç on the way to Tirana, rolls across continuing undulating terrain. The ride’s first section is pleasant — a scenic road along a channel with canyons and views of the expansive flatland to the west. 

For the most part, as cyclists pedal their way across the easy stage, one can expect excellent asphalt and low traffic. The number of cars picks up considerably in the millennia-old city of Lezhë, where the route parallels the Adriatic coast and protected lagoons. From there the Trans Dinarica continues south to Laç, where traffic again picks up as the day’s path ends.

Similar to the previous Albanian stage, today’s route will be dominated by rolling terrain with very good roads, and light to moderate traffic. The day begins in the town of Laç. While here, make sure to visit the 13th-century Church of Saint Anthony, which is still a popular pilgrimage site. 

The highlight of today’s Trans Dinarica stage comes during the approach to Tirana at the Prezë Castle near the top of a short 250-meter climb that provides a panoramic view north of the capital city. The entrance to the magnetic city of Tirana is through a maze of narrow side streets, with mostly moderate traffic. So it is possible to go quite far into Tirana before meeting the first streets with real traffic. As in any big city, cycling in Tirana is a bit more chaotic, despite the many bike lanes.

The morning begins in Albania’s capital city of Tirana, one of the most vibrant cities in the region, if not Europe. Before leaving the capital, make sure to take in some of the many cultural sites around the city. There are wonderful restaurants and bars, of course, but there are also museums like the two BUNK’ART exhibitions that provide a glimpse into Albania’s 20th-century history under dictator Enver Hoxha. For a meal, a cup of coffee, or something stronger, head to the famous Blloku neighborhood where a variety of boutiques, cafes, and bistros line the streets. If you like big cities, find accommodation close to the center, park your bike safely, and take an extra night to explore the day and nightlife.

Cyclists will take a quiet, side road to leave Tirana. Soon after, there will be a steep climb to a pass that offers a wonderful view of the city from the south. Riders will also come across another long climb on this stage starting from about the 22-kilometer mark and lasting approximately 12,5 kilometers with 630 meters of elevation gain. There is, however, a nearly mirror-image, exhilarating downhill — 13 kilometers and 700 meters — on the other side. The rest of the stage traverses rolling terrain with excellent views and fine roads. This road is popular for afternoon and weekend bike trips from Tirana, so don’t be surprised if you are overtaken by a full-on road racer.

There is low-to-moderate traffic up to the village of Bradashesh (at the 52-kilometer mark), where the route enters the main road between Tirana and Elbasan. Be aware that the last 5,5 kilometers into Elbasan is accompanied by more traffic, though there is a wide shoulder on the side of the road.

The stage — heading south and slightly east — leaves from Elbasan, which is the fourth largest city in Albania. Before setting off on another day along the Trans Dinarica bike route, take some time to check out what the city, which sits on the Shkumbin River and beneath the Skanderbeg Mountain, has to offer. For history and architecture fans, the Elbasan Castle, with foundations dating back to the Romans in the 3rd century BC, and the Church of Saint Mary, an inscribed cultural monument since 1963, are must-see spots.

Traffic will lessen as cyclists exit Elbasan. Starting at about the 26-kilometer mark, the route goes along the northern bank of the Banjë reservoir. About 14 kilometers after the city of Gramsh, there is a climb — starting at kilometer 56 for 6,5 kilometers near the end of the lake — that ascends 312 meters of elevation gain. For some, the descent on the other side of this climb — taking cyclists on a journey through a deep and narrow canyon — is among the most attractive cycling sections in the entire region.

The Trans Dinarica veers to the southeast as it leaves Moglicë. The cycling route undulates for the first 18 kilometers — though in general, it climbs to an elevation of 1.051 meters — before descending to a 4,5-kilometer unpaved section. From here, the route flattens out for the final ride for about 25 kilometers. Part of the road was under renovation during our research, so depending on the progress of the construction, the road-gravel ratio will change in the future.

Today’s stage will end in Korçë. While in this city with a population of about 75.000, make time to visit some of its best cultural attractions. Among the suggested stops include the Ottoman-era bazaar, the Iliaz Bej Mirahori Mosque, and the National Museum of Medieval Art. The city was one of the more pleasant surprises for us while exploring the cycling route in Albania.

In the city of Korce, you will probably take at least a walk through the nice city center, maybe enjoy a cake and a coffee, before you cycle the last stage in Albania. The road is entirely asphalt, quite fast in the first part, but not too busy.

In the second part of the stage, you will ride in the Prespa National Park with a view of the lake of the same name on your right. When you are near the town of Globoceni, there will be a tripple border point on the lake exactly east of you, between Albania, North Macedonia, and Greece. The small island is very close to this border, and it belongs to North Macedonia, which you will soon enter.

Shortly after crossing the border, there will be a turnoff to the Galičica National Park on your left; after a quite challenging climb, expect a beautiful view of Lake Ohrid from the top. The final destination of the stage is in Sveti Naum with its famous Monastery of Saint Naum, established back in 905 by St Naum of Ohrid himself. You can find a couple of accomodation in a village nearby, Ljubanishta, just next to the Ohrid lake bay.