Serbia

This second, and last, stage in the far eastern corner of Montenegro (if you’re coming from Kosovo and Montenegro) will also necessitate cyclists to cross two international borders in two days. This stage will begin in the mountain town of Rožaje, Montenegro. It will end in Tutin, a town in the far southwestern corner of Serbia.

The day will be, on the whole, easier than many. The landscape (with 100% asphalt surface) will be rolling with undulating hills from beginning to end, reaching its highest point, or 1,240 meters, about 12 kilometers into the 42-kilometer ride. The itinerary will wind back and forth for the entire stage. At around the 31-kilometer mark, cyclists will cross the border into Serbia.

Tutin itself is an underrated spot and a great place to absorb culture. It has a significant Bosniak population. Key points of interest include Tutin’s Old Town and the Djurdjevi Stupovi Monastery.

The Trans Dinarica’s bike tour in Serbia comes up from the Montenegrin border to Tutin (a distance of about nine kilometers) riding along a quiet, rolling state road. In Tutin — famous for its medieval iron mines — cyclists can relax in the quaint town center, which is cradled by hills. Or, they can pedal just outside of town (about 5 kilometers) to the Etno Selo Raduske Staze (Ethno Village Raduske Staze) to learn about traditional architecture and eat local food. 

Then, riders will continue north for approximately 30 kilometers of easy-going cycling to Novi Pazar, which was officially founded in the 15th, but sits within an area that was once the original capital (Ras and Stari Ras) of Serbia through the heart of the Middle Ages. The main city (population, about 75.000) of Serbia’s Sandžak Region, Novi Pazar, which means ‘new market’, straddles the Ljudska River. The city center buzzes with activity with restaurants and cafes as well as in its ​​’čaršija’, or old town bazaar district, where traditional coffee (stove-cooked) is served and shops selling everything from candy to clothes to jewelry can be found. This is a great place to make sure you have all the provisions needed for the next stages.

Cycling Serbia, you will pass by Novi Pazar, which is the center of several of the Western Balkans’ most important UNESCO sites. Stari Ras, founded in the 9th century, is an archaeological site and the location of the first capital of Serbia during medieval times. Another UNESCO-inscribed locale is the Sopoćani Monastery, established in the 13th century. Among the reasons for the monastery’s inclusion on the World Heritage List, according to UNESCO: “The frescoes in the Sopoćani Monastery church, dating from about 1270-1276, are among the finest in Byzantine and Serbian medieval art.”About 2.5 kilometers north of Novi Pazar’s center, cyclists will find the 9th-century Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul. This version of the Orthodox church can be traced back to Byzantine times. Actually, the structure’s foundations are from the Roman era and go back several centuries earlier (approximately the 4th century). It is considered the oldest church in Serbia. The Church of Saint Peter is part of the larger Stari Ras Complex of historical sites.

From Novi Pazar, the bike route continues to the northwest as it climbs up into the reaches of western Serbia. This is a slightly longer stage than some in order to make sure that travelers have plenty of options for accommodation, food, and to resupply as necessary. The day follows a combination of asphalt and packed gravel paths, and Trans Dinarica cyclists will get their first real chance to do some moderate climbing in Serbia. In addition to the beautiful natural panoramas, one of the man-made wonders in Delimeđe village is the exceptional mosque with two minarets, 77.2 meters high, the highest in Serbia and also in Europe (excluding Turkey). The trail rolls through mostly relaxing hills on the way to the next overnight in Sjenica, which is famous across the region for magnificent food, especially cheese, and warm hospitality.

Located on the Grabovica River, the town of Sjenica (population of around 25,000) was mentioned by travelers as early as the 13th as an important stopping point on trading routes connecting the East and West. At more than 1.000 meters in elevation, the town holds a unique and beautiful position over the incredibly green and fertile countryside of southwestern Serbia. A bustling town with cafes and shops, Sjenica is another great spot to purchase supplies for the upcoming stages and to relax a little with a great dinner of fish or meat and magnificent cheese, known locally as Sjenički sir, which has been specifically labeled geographically as unique.

The Trans Dinarica route rolls north from Sjenica and continues to evolve into its own character as it moves into Serbia’s interior. Today’s stage will find more unpaved (packed gravel) sections, which are slightly more challenging to pedal but also bring cyclists closer to the real personality and heart of the Western Balkans: its villages, and, arguably, the Trans Dinarica itself. After setting off, the stage follows good-to-excellent asphalt and gravel roads on the way up to the village of Kladnica. This section of the route truly epitomizes the Trans Dinarica — rolling hills, frozen-in-time settlements, and wonderful nature — with plenty of spots to take incredible photographs.

After Kladnica, the route heads up to the hillside village of Vilovi, where riders will find family-style homestays and apartment-type accommodations. They will also find incredibly friendly locals who are ready to provide information and homemade food and rakija to visitors. At approximately 1.100 meters in elevation, this beautiful layover will remind any cyclist why they started their journey in the first place

Alternative suggestion:

Sjenica – Molitva

• Distance:15 km
• Elevation:470 m
• Paved:60 %, Unpaved: 40 %

Of special note, for cyclists who like to go a little off the grid and are up for a more difficult challenge on their Balkan cycling holidays: Prior to Kladnica, the Special Nature Reserve Uvac, which covers more than 3,000 hectares and includes the magnificent and winding Uvac River, is an epic alternate route choice. The Uvac River, with its serpentine flow through the area’s mountainous landscape, is one of the most photogenic spots along the entire cycle route. Cyclists who choose this alternative will make their way to the Molitva viewpoint for panoramic views.

Cycling into Serbia’s fourth stage, visitors will start to become Trans Dinarica converts (if they haven’t already) on this easy day that both allows riders to take a little bit of a break and provides some extra time to really see the countryside. Moving due north, the trail provides lots of worthy sites and villages along the way. From Vilovi, the Trans Dinarica heads to the wonderful village of Kokin Brod on the banks of the Zlatarsko Jezero, or Golden Lake. Here you’ll find several accommodations if you’d like to take a load off early. There are also restaurants and the Ethno (and eco) village of Vraneša, where you will eat well and can stay in one of the property’s bungalows.

Today’s stage continues through the pastoral village of Jasenovo before it ends in Ljubiš, south of the city of Zlatibor. In a village of about 500 people, there are more accommodations and food options than one would expect in a community the size of Ljubiš. And, nearly anyone you meet (or lodge you visit) will be both helpful and welcoming for cyclists.

Cyclists will start to ‘re-enter’ civilization as the Trans Dinarica cycle route heads north toward Zlatibor. Officially a town, the amount of growth and traffic makes it feel more like a city and riders should pay special attention to traffic. There is also a significant amount of new construction with new buildings rising and new roads being constructed in and around the town. Famous across the region as a winter and ski resort community near Mount Zlatibor, Zlatibor has become a year-round spot for people of all ages and interests. There are plenty of restaurants and hotels (apartments) to choose from, and, perhaps most importantly — given the backcountry nature of the next few stages — a good place to load up on any provisions, gear, and equipment needed.

Sitting at about 1.000 meters above sea level and with a history that dates back to the Illyrians and Romans, Zlatibor is important to the region historically and, these days, recreationally. Come early, eat well, stock up on rations and supplies, sleep well, and prepare yourself for more incredible stages ahead.

The Trans Dinarica leaves the bustling ski resort city of Zlatibor, in the shadow of Mount Zlatibor, and continues pedaling toward Tara National Park (TNP). Located along Serbia’s western edge, on a horn-shaped piece of land jutting into Bosnia and Herzegovina and through the undulating hills of the Dinaric Alps, TNP covers 183 square kilometers and is one of the Western Balkans’ most beautiful national parks. From Zlatibor to the edge of the TNP, the route moves west, through the village of Semegnjevo, for approximately 28 kilometers. This path will take travelers over sedate countryside filled with family farms. This portion of the day consists of relaxed yet memorable climbs and fantastic sweeping descents. After reaching the national park’s boundary, the route turns north for around seven kilometers up to the town of Mokra Gora.

It is a challenging climb to get to Mokra Gora, but it is well worth it. The town has become synonymous with the ethno village of Drvengrad (Mećavnik) — constructed by movie director Emir Kusturica for his film ‘Život je čudo’ (Life is a Miracle). The set was turned into a place for travelers to relax, and for festivals: music and film. The hillside village is a dreamscape where cyclists will find an abundance of traditional flavor: a wooden church, brick streets, an art gallery, shops, cafes, restaurants, a cinema, a ski hill, and organic food grown on the property.

Another 25 kilometers along the route takes riders to the end of the day’s stage in Mitrovac, a charming town on the slopes of Tara Mountain and positioned next to the Nature reserve Crveni Potok. The accommodation hub for TNP, Mitrovac sits 1.080 meters high and is surrounded by guesthouses and places to eat and drink. Mitrovac is also the perfect place to enjoy an end-of-day beer or glass of wine after a good and challenging day in the saddle.

Alternative suggestion:

Zlatibor – Mokra Gora

• Distance:38 km
• Elevation:520 m
• Paved:100 %

A longer, less scenic, more trafficked, but easier alternate option heads northeast from Zlatibor to Užice before turning west via Čajetina, Kremna, Vitasi, and Šargan to Mokra Gora, from where it follows the main route again.

It seems hard to believe that today’s cycling stage on this Balkan travel route could match the combination of beauty, road conditions, and fun that yesterday’s incredible day of riding to Tara National Park achieved. However, today’s fast, short, but dramatic stage does just that. 

There is some climbing early in this Trans Dinarica stage. The part you’ll remember though is the magnificent, looping descent through tunnels and along the Drina River, which separates Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The mostly paved, lightly trafficked road takes cyclists to a beautiful riverside resort setting, where weekend houses and restaurants come together to create a scene that will make you seriously think about taking a break for a couple of days.

The day’s stage ends in the town of Bajina Bašta, on the edge of the Tara National Park. Canyons, the Drina River, Tara Mountain, pastoral countryside setting, and an inviting main street all come together in an idyllic package. Keep your eye out for the town’s famous ‘House on the Rock‘ in the middle of the river.