Croatia

The first full stage of the Trans Dinarica in Croatia is exactly what most cyclists imagine when they see themselves cycling in this boomerang-shaped country that runs down the Adriatic coast. There are wonderful seaside panoramas, great food, and undulating terrain that takes you to picturesque villages. This relatively short and easygoing ride leaves from Čavle. Along with the village of Grobnik, this corner of Croatia has a long list of outdoor activities to enjoy: hiking, cycling, climbing, and loads of history. The area, on the edge of the Kvarner Region, is also famous for its fantastic sausage and cheese.

From Čavle, the first two-thirds of the itinerary is paved and, though rolling, is almost entirely a descent towards the sea. As it parallels the coast (to the west), the route passes through the villages of Kukuljanovo, Hreljin, and Križišće. When the trail gets to Tribalj, a peaceful gravel cycling path follows the small Dubračina River, which escorts cyclists all the way to the town of Crikvenica. Here Trans Dinarica riders will be able to relax in the Adriatic for the first time along the route.

Today’s stage will leave from Crikvenica. This seaside, mainland resort town is a peaceful spot to relax for a day, find your favorite cafe, check out the attractions, and reset yourself for the incredible and diverse (in terms of landscapes, challenge, and difficulty) days ahead. Directly across from the island of Krk, Crikvenica is made up of several smaller settlements along the Kvarner Bay and thus the Adriatic. There are beaches, of course, but there are also several great restaurants to recharge and refuel along the Trans Dinarica.

The route hugs the coast for about four kilometers until the seaside town of Selce, where cyclists will turn east and inland, and begin climbing. The ascent goes from sea level to nearly 500 meters. In Bater, at the top of the climb, riders will reach something like a plateau (first going slightly downhill and then slightly uphill) and idyllic gravel along with remote and quiet roads. Though the route has left the coast for the moment, don’t worry. There are great views of the Kvarner Islands, which will inspire your last push to the day’s destination.

At approximately 600 meters above sea level, the route tilts down and starts the descent on gravel and then asphalt. The last five kilometers are relaxed and perfect for loosening up before getting off the saddle for the day. The stage ends in another beachside town, Senj. This is really a wonderful place to be for the night: on the coast and within a stone’s throw from the Northern Velebit National Park.

As the adventure continues south, it enters the heart of Croatia’s Trans Dinarica. Before leaving Senj, however, make sure to visit the 16th-century Nehaj Fortress, which once guarded this critical stretch of coastline. After you’ve pedaled away from Senj, get ready for a short stage with some challenging gravel climbs. 

Leaving Senj center, you’ll pass the Nehaj Fortress. Shortly after, the route comes to a steep climb — first over asphalt and then on gravel. (Be aware: There are a few demanding sections because of the loose gravel surface.) There are always advantages to enduring big climbs — with this one taking you to over 1.000 meters above sea level — and in this case, your reward comes in the shape of beautiful panoramas, sea and island views, unspoiled nature, and horses.

The last section of today’s stage will descend along an asphalt road towards the village of Krasno. This town holds a warm spot in the hearts of all Croatian mountaineers because it is an obligatory stop on the way into Northern Velebit National Park. Here, near the edge of the protected area, you’ll find the park’s information center Kuća Velebita (Velebit House). And, importantly, don’t let a visit to Krasno go by without a visit to the famous Runolist Dairy with its shop and cheese tasting room.

Get ready for a challenging ride with a good breakfast — you’ll need the fuel. Then, from Krasno you’ll head south along the eastern edge of the Northern Velebit National Park. The day’s destination will be the town of Baške Oštarije — known as a key stop while hiking the trail across Velebit Mountain Range.

After leaving Krasno the route is paved for the first 30 kilometers of rolling terrain. It should also be noted that there is little in the way of infrastructure along the stage — mainly good and quiet asphalt roads, and well-maintained gravel forest roads. More than anything, there is remoteness. In the village of Stirovača (at about the 27-kilometer point), there is a good water supply. This is especially important during the hot and dry summer months. Because this is traditionally known as a hiking area, there are several mountain cabins along the way. It should be noted, though, that these are not always open and riders should check the opening dates/hours before starting the stage. These are excellent shelters if bad weather appears unexpectedly.

From approximately the 30-kilometer point to 53 kilometers, the stage becomes an undulating gravel route. You will be surrounded by incredible karst (limestone) formations. Cyclists will then leave the relative shade of forests and a tunnel of craggy stone towers: Dabarski kukovi. After Dabarski kukovi, the trail descends for some 300 meters to an asphalt road, which connects to the main road (Karlobag-Gospić). From here, there is one more climb, of just over 300 meters, to the day’s destination, Baške Oštarije.

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Alternative suggestions:

1. Krasno – Zavižan

• Distance: 29 km
• Elevation: 840 m
• Paved: 26%, unpaved: 74%

For those inspired to make an already challenging day from Krasno to Baške Oštarije a little more so, this alternative over Zavižan has cyclists climbing straight from Krasno. This alternative stage begins with a gravel climb connects to an asphalt road which takes riders to the parking place below the top of Zavižan Mountain Hut. In the middle of the climb, there is an entrance checkpoint with entrance fee for the Velebit NP. At the mountain hut, get ready for amazing views across the Adriatic Sea. After, riders will take the gravel road through dense forests, which reconnect to the main route after approximately 12 kilometers.

2. Dabarski kukovi – Baške Oštarije (Premužić Trail/Premužićeva staza)

• Distance: 6 km
• Elevation: 110 m
• Paved: 24%, unpaved: 76%

This alternative “shortcut” takes riders from Dabarski kukovi directly to Baške Oštarije. The route begins as a single trail, going uphill with several bumpy and rocky sections. All are doable with gravel bikes — if one is a bit more skilled — but perhaps trickier with panniers or heavily loaded bikes. This alternative is potentially worth taking (even if pushing the bike for a short stretch) because after approximately 1 kilometer the trail becomes smooth and a beautiful ride which turns into a regular gravel road descending all the way to Baške Oštarije. This option translates to six challenging kilometers with 100 meters up and down, as compared to 15 kilometers with 350 meters up/down.

The day begins in Baške Oštarije, which is an ideal place to wake up and get ready for a beautiful cycling stage in the mountains. There are also a few nice places to sleep, good food, and an easygoing vibe. This quiet town has been a key stop on the Velebit Hiking Trail for decades. It is also a perfect spot for cyclists. The good news: After a few harder stages, this is a nice and relaxing one. From Baške Oštarije, the Trans Dinarica starts with a long asphalt descent towards Gospić. Take note: Gospić is the only “larger” town for the next couple of days, so it is worth keeping in mind with regard to supplies, food, and any necessary repairs.

Take time to do all that in Gospić — one of the region’s chief towns and the administrative hub of Lika-Senj County, known for farming, livestock, and wood processing. The traditional food here is simple and hearty, based on fresh, local ingredients.

After starting your day in the pleasant village of Sveti Rok, which has a population of about 300 and is just about 20 kilometers as the crow flies from Paklenica National Park, get ready for an epic gravel stage — crossing the Velebit range for the last time. Today’s ride won’t be quite so long and challenging, but a nice ride and incredibly picturesque.

From Sveti Rok, you’ll take the Majstorska cesta, or Master’s Road, to the top of Mali Alan pass, where the views of the Adriatic Sea open again. Take a moment to be in the moment, snap lots of images, and then, from Mali Alan, continue on the challenging gravel descent that leads below picturesque Tulove grede, where filming of one of the Winnetou movies took place (you’ll see a small memorial). The descent continues with several serpentine, horseshoe bends until it crosses the highway (through a tunnel) and the asphalt road starts. 

The asphalt descent covers about 10 kilometers down to the main road above the Zrmanja River Canyon. The stage ends along nice and easy asphalt, directly at the Zrmanja Waterfall. Here, riders will find a nice beach and a spot to swim — a perfect ending to a great day of cycling.

The stage begins on the banks of the Zrmanja River. After coffee and breakfast in one of the local cafes, head over to Zrmanja Waterfalls to get a rush of nature here in this remote corner of Croatia tucked in the Dinaric Alps. Then, load up and get ready for a wonderful day of carefree cycling with just the right amount of climbing and descending.

Soon after the first few kilometers on a busier road, this moderate stage (100% asphalt) takes very remote and narrow (but still paved) roads. These lengths of blacktop feel like they were built for cycling. The pedaling here is ideal. Big sweeping sections are quiet and seemingly forgotten with long stretches of complete emptiness. On a crisp sunny day, this is what heaven certainly feels like. The ride will be surrounded by mountain peaks — Vrščić, Stari Vrh, Glavica — as you roll through villages: Bilišane, Šukare, and Žegar.

Approaching Knin, the route connects to the main road. From here cyclists will descend directly to the city. Above, you’ll be welcomed by the historic Knin Fortress.

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Alternative suggestion:

Zrmanja – Bogatnik

• Distance: 7 km
• Elevation: 220 m
• Paved: 49%, unpaved: 51%

For riders looking for a shorter yet harder alternative stretch from the Zrmanja Waterfalls, try this seven-kilometer detour. Soon after the waterfalls, turn left in the direction of Bogatnik village. The first half of the ride (3.5 kilometers) is very beautiful and stays close to the Zrmanja River. This section is asphalt. The route gets more challenging, bumpier and rolling as it turns into a gravel trail for the second half of the stage — until it reconnects with the main asphalt road and the main route.

A memorable stage if there ever was one, this day will connect two important towns and cross the hinterlands behind Dalmatia toward the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. Before leaving Knin — the start of the stage — check out the Knin Fortress, which traces the beginning of its construction back to the 9th century. This “royal town on seven rivers” has always been considered one of the “keys to Croatia.” The Knin Museum is also worth a visit.

Though this is a longer-than-normal stage, the climbs are not very long or steep. Soon after Knin, there is the beautiful Krčić Waterfall at the source of the Krka River. It is worth taking a short detour (although the best views of the waterfall can be seen from the road above where the route continues). Above the Krčić waterfall, the Napoleon gravel road starts and runs for approximately 12 kilometers. It follows the Krčić Stream with several small waterfalls and old mills. There are can’t miss views over Dinara Mountain on the left side above the road.

After the gravel Napoleon Road ends, views over Dinara open even wider. You will then hop on quiet roads (the last 50 kilometers are asphalt) over remote expanses of land that take you to one of the most famous sources of the Cetina River: Vrelo Cetine, known as “The Eye of the Earth.” (It’s possible to take a shortcut to this point.) From Vrelo Cetine, there are wonderful and relaxed asphalt roads that continue along the river’s left bank and above Peručko jezero (lake). You’ll cross the Cetina River for the last time at the village of Rumin where you’ll ride for about 10 kilometers to the busier town of Sinj.

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Alternative suggestion:

Validžići – Milaši (Vrelo Cetine – Cetine River Source)

• Distance: 4 km
• Elevation: 10 m
• Paved: 1%, unpaved: 99%

For those riders who would like a shortcut directly to Vrelo Cetine (cutting the distance from eight kilometers to 3.5 kilometers), this is a good option. The alternative picks up near the village of Validžići and rides to the village of Milaši. Be aware, however: this trail is a little more challenging with poorer surface quality — especially in wet conditions and with the possibility of mud.

The final stage before entering Bosnia and Herzegovina is a wonderful example of what makes the Trans Dinarica such an important route. Two beautiful countries will be connected here today, over the international border and after a long, challenging, and invigorating climb. As well, two important towns will be linked: Sinj, Croatia, and Livno, Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The stage begins in Sinj, Croatia. In the middle of the Dalmatian Region and the heart of the hinterlands known as Dalmatinska zagora, Sinj is a nice spot to spend the day, eat well, stock up on supplies, and lose yourself in culture. Among the must-see locations include the Kamičak Fort and the Museum of the Cetinska Krajina Region.

After approximately eight kilometers of easy riding on asphalt (the entire surface today is asphalt), you’ll begin a steady climb. The climb lasts for around 20 kilometers. The ascent’s grade is also steady — averaging around 5% for the length of the climb.

From here, both countries fan out before you and you can feel the power of history. At about the 28-kilometer mark, the road begins to tilt down with a 10-kilometer descent that flattens out to an easygoing road into Livno, which sits at the confluences of several rivers and streams. Famous for the wild horses that roam the surroundings, Livno is also well known for its tasty cheese, Livanjski sir, which dates back centuries. In Livno, cyclists have a wide array of services. Hotels, restaurants of nearly every variety, and places to re-supply are plentiful.

For the Trans Dinarica Cycle Route, Livno is also important because it represents the point where the interior part of the route (the part that connects the Western Balkans of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Serbia) meets to form a loop, that can be viewed as an independent trail/itinerary.

The first possible deviation/start of the island alternative route leaves from Senj. This course will completely avoid the Velebit.

From Senj, follow the main ‘Jadranska magistrala’ (Adriatic Highway) road all the way to the Prizna ferry port. Be aware, depending on the season this road can be busy. Regardless, this is one of the epic cycling roads in the entire Western Balkans and a ride here is constantly rewarded with incredible sea and island views.

The ride is marked by a 10-kilometer climb ascending from sea level to around 350 meters, a rolling and easygoing stretch for about 30 kilometers, and then a descent to the sea.

After crossing the Pag channel with a ferry (expect about 30 minutes for the ride), riders will  continue along a moderate asphalt climb (which is a main road, so expect traffic in the summer) all the way towards Novalja after a ride of eight kilometers and 180 meters of elevation to overcome.

For travelers new to the area — and for veterans — Novalja, the day’s destination, is a special place. In the northern part of Pag island, this vacation town offers great restaurants, excellent local wines, hiking and biking trails, and superior beaches. And, you will be in a great location to take advantage of cheeses and olive oils that are famous from Pag’s moonscape landscape.

There are, of course, many possible alternative routes crisscrossing Croatia. The Trans Dinarica’s possibilities have been curated to think about cyclists across all abilities. This course will ride the first Velebit stage and climb from Senj to Krasno. Then riders will make the turn to this alternative island route the next day — from Krasno, over Alan, to Novalja on the island of Pag.

From Krasno, the route starts the same as the primary backbone route — avoiding the harder Zavižan alternative — all the way to the mountain hut named Careva kuća, where the alternative route turns right and takes gravel roads towards the Alan mountain hut. At Alan, make sure to take in all the beautiful views across the open Adriatic Sea.

After Alan, there is a long and open asphalt descent that goes all the way to the ‘Jadranska magistrala,’ or Adriatic Highway, where it will connect to the Senj-Novalja route (see above). One can make this stage even harder by taking the harder Zavižan alternative.

For travelers new to the area — and for veterans — Novalja, the day’s destination, is a special place. In the northern part of Pag island, this vacation town offers great restaurants, excellent local wines, hiking and biking trails, and superior beaches. And, you will be in a perfect location to take advantage of cheeses and olive oils that are famous from Pag’s moonscape landscape.

Soon after Novalja, the route turns right and away from the main road. This alternative continuation will take remote and somewhat challenging gravel roads over the Pag countryside. Be prepared for an undulating course with, at times, sharp ascents and descents. This route will take in both the town of Pag and Povljana on the way to Rtina.

After crossing the main road, the route continues along the eastern side of the island. Again, riders will find themselves following beautiful and remote gravel roads all the way to the town of Pag. After Pag town, the route follows the shores of the narrow Pag bay with famous Pag saltpans. This is a good place to stop to learn about the “salt making” process. As well, there is a nice Solana Pag gift shop on the other side of the bay. While here, find out more about Pag’s famous lace production.

Approaching Povljana, the route turns left and back towards the main road. Cyclists will then cross the Pag Bridge that takes them back to the mainland. Be aware that it can get quite windy when crossing the bridge. The stage’s destination is the small touristic town of Rtina.

From Rtina, the route slowly climbs towards Posedarje, a town famous for its delicious prosciutto. Before reaching the town, this Trans Dinarica secondary stage turns left onto a side road. It then continues along a steep climb. At the top, take in the views over the town of Starigrad, the adjacent Paklenica National Park, and the Velebit Mountains as they rise above the deep blue Adriatic Sea.

Cyclists will enjoy the quiet, remote asphalt road that continues towards Maslenica, where it crosses a narrow sea passage over the red Maslenički Bridge with the small Karinsko More (Karin Sea) on the right side. About four kilometers before reaching the main, or backbone, route — corresponding to the Sveti Rok-to-Zrmanja stage — there is another short detour worth taking. It leads you to the very edge of the Zrmanja River canyon. From this vantage, you’ll have expansive views over the river that slowly flows towards the Adriatic Sea.