Read an inspiring story of Miriam Wuffli, who cycled 2,576 kilometers from Switzerland to the Acropolis in Greece, gaining 28,243 meters of altitude and crossing 10 countries in 27 stages. A big part of her cycling adventure was Trans Dinarica, which she described as the heart of her journey – geographically and emotionally. We believe that her story will be an inspiration to many. Miriam, thank you and good luck on your future Journeys!

What happens when you deliberately take your time – for unknown paths, foreign regions, and a journey alone? This question was the starting point of my bikepacking tour from Switzerland to Athens: 2,576 kilometers powered by my own muscle strength, through mountains, cities, and remote villages. I was often asked: “Isn’t it dangerous to travel alone through the Balkans?” – sometimes even expressed by locals. Nevertheless, I started my adventure carefree in Switzerland, accompanied by friends until Kitzbühel. From there, my solo bikepacking began: over the Alps, across the Balkans, past lakes, mountain passes, and coasts. The Trans Dinarica became the heart of this journey – geographically and emotionally.

A shepherd with goats, something you don’t see on Swiss roads anymore.

Slovenia to North Macedonia – The Trans Dinarica

Heat, coast, and karstic seclusion

From Villach, I went over the Wurzen-Pass into Slovenia, where the Trans Dinarica officially begins. From Ljubljana, the route led me through dense forests over Postojna to the Croatian coast – accompanied by karst landscapes, a Mediterranean climate, and quiet bear territories. The stages along the coast and through the mountainous inland challenged me physically and mentally – especially in heat or strong winds. From Senj, I passed the Red Zora over the Oltari Pass into the wild Croatian hinterland. The sections took me past remote villages, waterfalls near Knin, over high plateaus, and through regions full of visible history – impressive and unique – my first encounter with the typical Dinarica seclusion.

Peaceful Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia at sunset.

Wild horses and lonely heights

The border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina was at the Vaganj Pass – at the top stood only one customs officer in a wind-tilted hut and a whole herd of wild horses. The route through the Dinaric highlands was one of the loneliest and at the same time most impressive stages: rough terrain, hardly any infrastructure, pure nature with breathtaking vastness. Between Tomislavgrad and Mostar, it got technical: loose gravel roads, hike-a-bike sections, steep downhills – partly on Strava segments ironically labeled ‘don’t go there with gravel bikes’ – and that’s exactly where I had the most fun.

From rails to gravel – and back into adventure

From Mostar, I followed the Čiro Trail, an abandoned railway line between Mostar and Dubrovnik, and left the official Trans Dinarica for this detour. Snakes, tunnels, and an almost meditative atmosphere characterized this section. For gravel bike travelers, a worthwhile variant with historical context and an adventurous flair. The improvised section from Dubrovnik to Shkoder partly followed main roads – which made me miss the seclusion and beauty of the Trans Dinarica all the more. Still, Montenegro showed its best side: great pebble beaches, little tourism. The authentic Balkan flair was less palpable in the highly developed coastal region than in the hinterland, where shepherds walk on foot and old tractors remind of bygone times.

A quiet Adriatic coast outside the main tourist season.

From Albania to North Macedonia – diversity between modernity and tradition

Between rugged charm and great warmth

From Shkoder, surprisingly diverse stages followed through Albania. In the cities, there was creative traffic chaos, in the hinterland I was chased by a shepherd dog – while farmers dressed in traditional clothes tried to catch a runaway sow with a branch. The area between Tirana and Ohrid was marked by impressive nature, parts of the UNESCO World Heritage, and a timelessness that deeply impressed me. At Lake Ohrid, I rode over the scenic Galičica Pass – a little-traveled road with spectacular nature. Near Bitola, I met other bike travelers and together we rode to a remote village to visit a Macedonian photographer – the Balkan section ended under a starry sky, with good conversations and a glass of wine.

The Trans Dinarica was for me the most intense part of the journey in terms of landscape, culture, and people – challenging, beautiful, and surprisingly versatile. It connected country borders with a continuous narrative: how differently people live, how similar their warmth is, how deep history runs to this day, and how special it is to experience this diversity by your own muscle power.

Destination: Athens – via North Macedonia and Greece

After Bitola, I left the Trans Dinarica and cycled further through Greece: Kozani, Larissa, Lamia, Thiva. Always accompanied by curious dogs – mostly harmless, sometimes demanding.
The last stage to Athens was one of the most beautiful both scenically and emotionally: perfectly paved mountain roads, gravel paths, barren expanses – and at the end the view of the Acropolis.

Final destination: the ancient Greek temples of Athens.

More than a route – an experience for life

The Trans Dinarica was the heart of my Balkan adventure – not only geographically but also emotionally. The combination of demanding terrain, cultural depth, and scenic variety made it the highlight of this trip. Whoever embraces it will not only collect kilometers and elevation meters – but also stories and learn to meet the unexpected with composure. Was it dangerous? With the right preparation, attention, and openness, I was able to experience many beautiful, heartfelt encounters and always felt safe – even alone. The Balkans deeply impressed me with untouched nature, genuine authenticity, and great hospitality – I would love to come back.

Fun fact: despite rough terrain – not a single flat tire! ツ

With the right equipment and the right approach, Miriam never felt unsafe anywhere.

Miriam’s bike and gear for her bikepacking adventure:

Bike

• Rose Backroad GRX RX810
• 1×12 gearing
• Shimano GRX
• Schwalbe Tire G-One Overland (Tubeless)
• Two sided pedals (flat + click)

Bags / Bottles

• handelbar deuter mondego HB8
• saddlebag deuter mondego SB16
• frame bag deuter mondego FB6
• snack bag fjällräven
• two waterbottles each 650ml
• one waterfilter (never used it)

Gear

• navigation Iphone on quadlock
• powerbank 15000mAh, 30W, 55.50WH
• clothing mostly ryzon
• shoes shimano womens rc302

Note: some of the photos are not from Trans Dinarica, but we are publishing them anyway, as the article as a whole nicely shows that TD can be just part of your longer journey.

Photo gallery – bikepacking from Switzerland to Greece