After her van broke down in Greece, Anne took a long ride back home via Trans Dinarica
“I Didn’t Plan It – The Trans Dinarica Found Me” – these are the words with which Ann described her cycling adventure. Definitely a story worth reading and… Do it on your own? Well, you don’t have to break down your van on a Greek island, but you can be inspired by courage and will of this solo female traveler on her 20 years old bike. We are publishing her text without any corrections.
It all started with a broken van engine in the middle of nowhere on Crete. Towed to Heraklion and staring at a long wait for repairs, flying home felt like the least interesting option. I had my everyday bike with me (third-hand, almost 20 years old and still going strong), my climbing gear, and a lightweight camping setup. And slowly, an idea took root: what if I rode home?
The obvious route—up through Igoumenitsa, ferry to Italy, then north via Austria—felt a bit… meh. “Boring,” said my intuition. “Check the Balkans.” So, I did. A few clicks later, I landed on the Trans Dinarica website. Instantly, I knew: that’s the one.
By bike from Greece to Germany – along the Trans Dinarica route
In Heraklion, I sorted myself out with new tires, brakes, a fresh chain, two panniers, and a pair of padded cycling shorts (a true gift to humanity). Four days after the idea struck, I left my van and all my climbing gear except the helmet behind. Bikes travel for free on Greek ferries (who knew?), so I hopped on one to Piraeus and rolled straight into the chaos of Athens… and survived. My route through Greece was my own creation, mostly smooth sailing, though Komoot once sent me across a four-lane motorway and another time into a riverbed that would’ve been impossible to ride even without luggage. Still, when I reached Bitola and joined the Trans Dinarica, something shifted. Game. Changer.
Above the canyon of the Zrmanja River in Croatia.
I rode the Trans Dinarica in reverse (except in North Macedonia and Kosovo) and used the connector route between Peja and Plav (Čakor Pass) to cross into Montenegro. Riding it backwards sometimes meant steeper climbs and tougher sections, so I adapted a few stages. But overall, the route was easy to follow in reverse—I navigated acoustically, with headphones, and my inner compass.
Cycling in reverse is sometimes difficult, but always wonderful
And what can I say? I always felt safe. The people were incredible. The landscapes—honestly, words fail. And the riding? Tough. Two days nearly broke me (Sinjajevina Plateau and the stretch from Mostar to Tomislavgrad), but they were also among the most stunning. Quiet paths, every kind of terrain—gravel, tarmac, mud, even grassy tracks. Places I’d never have discovered on my own.
I grew—technically, mentally, maybe even spiritually. I had to push my bike uphill now and then, but almost never downhill. The more technical parts became something I looked forward to. I even found a new mental rhythm when climbing. Something shifted inside me on those Balkan trails, and I’m still figuring it out.
There were countless encounters—locals, fellow riders (real and virtual), and such immense hospitality. I fell in love with the Balkans. I’ll be back, no question.
Preparation? Minimal.
I didn’t train. I live in the mountains and bike every day. I changed the basics on my bike (tires, brakes, chain), kept my gear light, found a safe way to carry my laptop, and made a rough plan. I adapted almost daily. I had never done a solo bike trip this long before.
My three top tips:
- Bring duct tape, cable ties, and, if your bike has one, a spare derailleur hanger.
- Carry extra time. The magic is in the detours, the delays, the random conversations.
- Don’t overthink. Just start riding.
My journey? Not over yet.
I’m still making my way home—not the fastest way, but the most beautiful, with plenty of detours. If you want to follow along, meet me on Instagram: @anneadventure.de.
And the van? It was shipped home (bless that insurance), and back at my local garage, they discovered the breakdown was due to a fault. So now I’m getting a fully reworked engine, free of charge. Somehow, I got gifted this entire journey.
