Bikepacking from Bern to Istanbul: Following the Trans Dinarica was the best decision
On social media, we saw wonderful posts from a young couple who bikepacked from Bern, Switzerland to Istanbul, Turkey, following a large part of the Trans Dinarica cycle route on the way. We asked them for a longer story of their bikepacking adventure through the Balkans and this is what we got from Sulamith & Silvan. Enjoy reading!
text & photos: Sulamith Scheurer & Silvan Forster / bicibalkani.com
What started as a crazy idea over a glass of wine became reality a year later. We quit our jobs, bought new gravel bikes (Velotraum Speedster 2), and set out to pack our entire lives onto two bicycles. In early July 2024, we embarked on our journey into the unknown: from Bern (Switzerland) through the Balkans towards Istanbul.
Just before we set off, we first heard about the Trans Dinarica. We were lucky that shortly after our departure, the first GPS tracks and detailed information about the Trans Dinarica were published. After riding some initial stages and sections of the Trans Dinarica in Slovenia, Croatia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, we were so thrilled that we decided to fully follow the Trans Dinarica routes in Montenegro and Albania – which turned out to be the best decision.
Sulamith and Silvan quit their jobs and went on a long bikepacking adventure.
Unforgettable Experiences on the Trans Dinarica
A Border Crossing Like in an Adventure Movie: Without GPS and planning, we would have thought we were lost. The border between Bosnia and Montenegro crosses an old wooden bridge stretching over the beautiful turquoise waters of the Tara River. As soon as we crossed the bridge, a steep ascent awaited us. While struggling up into Montenegro’s hinterland, thunder announced an approaching storm. By the time we reached the top, the sky had turned dark, and we realized we wouldn’t be able to escape the storm. Feeling a bit helpless, we searched for a dry spot to pitch our tent. Just as we parked our bikes at a fork in the road to grab our rain jackets, a sign appeared: Camping Eco Village Jugoslavija. In the middle of this remote landscape, it felt almost surreal. We barely managed to push our bikes under the small restaurant’s roof before the first raindrops fell.
New Friendships on the Trans Dinarica: During a lunch break in a barren, moon-like landscape, two cyclists suddenly appeared out of nowhere – just like us, they were traveling along the Trans Dinarica. We were surprised and excited to meet fellow cyclists in such a remote place. That’s how we met Amrei and Mo from Germany. From then on, our paths kept crossing. We met them at campsites, shared meals, and exchanged experiences.
A Route on the Water: From the relaxed, bicycle-friendly city of Shkodra, there is a unique route of Trans Dinarica: after cycling 60 kilometers, we took the ferry from Koman to Fierze. Before the ferry ride, we stayed at a family-run campsite near the harbor, where we reunited with our German cycling friends. The next morning, we rode through one last tunnel and were surprised by the number of people walking towards the ferry. Besides us, there were also some day tourists who had arrived by bus. We weren’t alone, but we and our bikes found a spot on the ferry without any problems. We enjoyed a break from pedaling, gliding over the fjord-like reservoir while admiring the breathtaking landscape.
A Surprise Around Every Corner: By the time we reached Plav at midday, we were already quite sweaty. On a whim, we decided to take a look at Plav Lake. Surprised by a large swimming dock and the strikingly blue water, we spontaneously took a refreshing dip – a fantastic cool-down in Montenegro’s largest glacial lake. Later, we continued towards Albania. Without any expectations, we crossed the border and were once again amazed. A winding downhill stretch on newly paved roads with barely any traffic awaited us. We relished this unique descent, captivated by the stunning scenery. Upon arriving in Tamere, we were offered a place to pitch our tent in the village square. What a day!
Hospitality: In Kukes (Albania), we cycled past countless fruit trees when a man by the roadside waved us over. We stopped, and without saying a word, he began picking apples from a nearby tree and handing them to us. Then, he disappeared for a moment and returned with plums, placing them in the fold of my T-shirt. We thanked him warmly and tried to explain that we barely had space left on our bikes. But he was insistent and even handed us a bunch of grapes on top of it. When we tried to give him some money, he laughed, refused it, and shook our hands. This incredible hospitality accompanied us throughout our entire journey on the Trans Dinarica.
Rich in beautiful experiences, touching encounters, and unique impressions, our journey continued from Albania towards Greece.
Ferry ride on the Komani Lake in Albania.
What We Love About the Trans Dinarica:
- Fewer Tourists, More Nature: The Trans Dinarica allowed us to escape the tourist crowds along the Adriatic coast and enjoy untouched natural landscapes.
- Pleasant Summer Temperatures: While the coast was scorching hot, the higher altitudes provided mostly comfortable temperatures in July and August.
- Easy Navigation & Flexibility: The suggested Trans Dinarica route simplified our planning while still allowing for individual adjustments. We often tailored distances and elevation to suit our needs.
- Low Traffic, Maximum Cycling Enjoyment: Many roads along the Trans Dinarica have little or no traffic, making them perfect for bike travelers.
- Easy Camping: Almost everywhere along the route, we found campsites or wild camping opportunities. Prices for official campsites were usually between 10 and 20 euros per night (in Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania).
- Detailed Additional Information: In addition to the GPS tracks, we greatly appreciated information about road conditions and other useful details.
- Unique Experiences: Thanks to the Trans Dinarica, we experienced places we wouldn’t have discovered on our own. A major highlight were the routes from Trsa to Žabljak and from Žabljak to Kolašin in Montenegro, which were two of the most challenging but rewarding sections.
Who is the Trans Dinarica Suitable For?
Even though the route passes through some remote areas, you don’t need years of bikepacking experience. For us, it was our first time traveling by bicycle for such a long period. Most stages offer plenty of food options, and with some planning, you can always find accommodation – whether camping or staying with locals via WarmShowers. The Trans Dinarica is suitable for both short bike trips (1-3 weeks) and longer bikepacking adventures.
Bikepacking is slow travel with a big dose of adventure! For us, there is no better way to travel than by bike. You see a lot of a country, connect with local people, and gain insight into the culture, food, and nature – all while staying far away from typical tourist hotspots.
Enjoy the ride!
