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Adrien and his 40-day gravel adventure across the Balkans: bike, gear, favourite spots, navigation, people …

This time, the story and photos were sent to us by Adrien van den Branden from Belgium. In 40 days, he rode his gravel bike for 3,650 kilometers accross the Balkans, partly using the navigation data of the Trans Dinarica, and partly adjusting the route to his own wishes; for example, he spent more time on the Croatian coast. It’s nice to see how other people experience the region, and how despite our diversity, the same good things emerge: beautiful nature and warm-hearted people. Adrien, thank you for sharing your story and for all important information about bike, tires and gear, we believe that your demanding cycling adventure will inspire another cyclist.

 

The journey

 

In the summer of 2024, I embarked on an unforgettable cycling journey across the Balkans, following the Trans Dinarica, a gravel bike route designed to showcase the region’s breathtaking landscapes, cultural richness and off-the-beaten-path experiences. Covering 3,650 km in 40 days, with a staggering 64,800 meters of altitude gain, this trip took me through seven countries, along rugged gravel tracks, stunning mountain passes and beautiful coastlines. More than just a physical challenge, the trip was an incredible cultural experience, filled with kind encounters, warm hospitality and cycling fun under the sun.

 

Adrien and his Canyon gravel bike, fully equiped for the Trans Dinarica.

 

Bike & Gear

For this trip, I used a Canyon Grail CF 8 gravel bike, equipped with 40mm tires, which proved to be an excellent balance between speed and comfort, on both gravel and asphalt.

My setup’s total weight: 18 kg, making it a very light and efficient bikepacking setup. See below my gear in details.

 

Bags:

● Topeak Frontloader
● Topeak Midloader
● Topeak Backloader
● Small frame bag

 

On the bike:

● Small front light & rear light
● Garmin GPS with handlebar fixation
● 3 HypLok Z Lok combo locks for security
● 2 small water bidons

 

Clothing (cycling):

● 2 cycling shorts, 2 jerseys
● 3 pairs of socks
● 2 light rain cycling overshoes
● Short gloves, sleeves, bike sunglasses
● Buff, helmet, K-way (windbreaker), bike cap

 

Repair kit:

● 3 tyre levers, 1x 28″ inner tube, self-adhesive patches
● Derailleur hanger, chain link
● Mini pump, compact multi-tool
● Small cleaning cloth, disc brake chocks

 

Clothing (off the bike):

● Mini quick-dry towel
● Spare shorts/pants combo, spare T-shirt, mini shorts
● Light beanie, Patagonia rain jacket, Patagonia black fleece
● Small plastic bag (for wet storage), pair of shoestrings (ideal to let your feet breathe after a long day of cycling)

 

Camping:

● Small sleeping bag
● Ultra-light bivy (Terra Nova Jupiter Lite Bivi)
● Survival blanket (in case of hardship)
● Small inflatable mattress
● Opinel knife
● Lifestraw water filter

 

Electronics:

● Nitecore light external battery
● Smartphone, phone cable, very small universal cable
● Schockz earphones and cable
● Socket (2-plug)

 

Pharmacy & hygiene:

● Imodium, Dafalgan
● Small disinfectant, self-adhesive plasters
● Vitamin C, Magnesium, Vitamin B12
● Sunscreen, Labello, Cicaplast cream, Arnigel
● Nail clippers
● Night mask, earplugs
● Toothpaste, light travel toothbrush, small Listerine bottle
● Toiletry bag

 

Documents & essentials:

● Passport, credit card, debit card
● Cash stored in a separate pocket
● Very light 10L shopping bag

 

This minimalist but comprehensive gear set helped me stay agile, travel light and remain self-sufficient in remote areas. The combination of lightweight camping gear and versatile clothing meant I was prepared for everything from scorching sun to chilly mountain nights, without overloading the bike. This was my first travel bike trip, and I was extremely happy with the setup. The bike handled gravel sections well, provided great comfort on long days in the saddle, and the lightweight gear choice allowed for a more enjoyable ride.

 

 

Logistics: Getting There and Back

 

My journey started in Zagreb, Croatia, and ended in Dubrovnik, Croatia. For logistics:

  • I took a train and bus from and to Brussels to keep the trip more sustainable.
  • My bike was shipped separately via DHL courier (over the train), which simplified travel (I didn’t have to worry about my bike at every train and bus stop) and avoided train and bus bike supplements.

 

Favorite Spots

 

The Balkans have no shortage of spectacular landscapes, but some places stood out as absolute highlights:

  • Bosnia & Herzegovina: Lake Rama’s serene blue waters provide a peaceful spot for a break, and its hilly surroundings make for a scenic but challenging ride. Mostar, with its famous Stari Most bridge, offers a mix of history and vibrant culture, making it an essential stop for any cyclist.
  • Serbia: The winding Uvac River is a cycling gem, with panoramic views from its famous meanders. The climb to the viewpoints is demanding but incredibly rewarding, offering a stunning contrast between the lush green hills and the deep blue river.
  • Kosovo: Kula Pass is one of the most exhilarating climbs on the route, with breathtaking alpine scenery and almost no traffic. The remote and rugged nature of the area makes it a dream for daring cyclists looking for altitude.
  • North Macedonia: Lake Mavrovo offers a serene ride through the national park, surrounded by towering peaks. Lake Prespa is a hidden gem with smooth roads and a peaceful atmosphere, while Lake Ohrid, a UNESCO World Heritage site, provides a spectacular mix of history and natural beauty, with quiet backroads perfect for cycling.
  • Albania: Drin Canyon features dramatic cliffs and deep blue waters, making it one of the most visually stunning parts of the route. Lake Moglica is a remote yet breathtaking stop, and the Albanian Alps offer some of the toughest but most rewarding climbs, with epic descents through traditional mountain villages.
  • Montenegro: Tara Canyon, one of Europe’s deepest canyons, provides jaw-dropping scenery with smooth, winding roads ideal for long-distance cycling. The Durmitor Mountains are a highlight, with alpine passes that test your endurance but reward you with incredible views.
  • Croatia: The coastal ride along the Adriatic is simply spectacular, with the scent of the sea and the sight of dramatic cliffs. The Pelješac Peninsula offers rolling hills and scenic vineyards, while the islands of Korčula and Mljet provide quiet roads, stunning coastal views, and ferry rides that add a fun twist to the adventure.

 

A cyclist in Theth, Albania, riding the Trans Dinarica.

 

Navigating with Trans Dinarica Tracks

 

One of the most valuable resources for my trip was the Trans Dinarica tracks. I downloaded each GPX track and uploaded them onto my Garmin GPS, ensuring I stayed on route even in the most remote areas. Note that you have to set those tracks up each one by one, so make sure you do that in advance with proper Wi-Fi connection. I decided to do the TD route in reverse, so it took me extra time to update the GPX tracks accordingly.

 

Additionally, I used the RideWithGPS app to:

  • View the tracks offline, which was crucial in areas with poor reception.
  • Anticipate water refill spots, ensuring I stayed hydrated in the heat.
  • Prepare for upcoming gravel sections, allowing me to adjust my pace and expectations accordingly.

The combination of these tools made the trip not just more efficient but also more enjoyable, letting me focus on the ride rather than constantly worrying about navigation.

 

Acts of Kindness Along the Way

 

One of the most memorable aspects of the trip was the incredible kindness I encountered across the Balkans. I had little to no expectations coming into the Balkans, but was struck by the openness and kindness of the locals, irrespective of the country I travelled. Here are some moments (among many, many more) that stood out:

  • Croatia: A friendly cyclist at the top of a pass filled my water bottles and took a great photo of me.
  • Bosnia & Herzegovina: A generous family welcomed me into their home for the night, offering delicious borek, strong coffee and a hearty breakfast.
  • Serbia: A kind Serbian cyclist gifted me a juice and borek for the road, a much-needed energy boost.
  • Kosovo: A super friendly Kosovar insisted on buying me breakfast—an unexpected but much-appreciated act of generosity.
  • North Macedonia: A fellow North Macedonian cyclist noticed my dry chain and kindly applied some oil to keep my bike running smoothly.
  • Albania: A welcoming campsite owner greeted me with fresh coffee and plums. She even offered me a place indoors to escape an incoming storm.
  • Montenegro: When I had a mechanical issue, a helpful Montenegrin took me to a local garage to repair my wheel, saving me a lot of trouble.

 

Adrien on his Trans Dinarica adventure posing in Kosovo and in Albania.

Final Thoughts

 

The Trans Dinarica was more than just a cycling route—it was a journey through history, culture and some of the most stunning landscapes I’ve ever seen. Despite the tough climbs, rough gravel, and occasional mechanical issues, the warmth and generosity of the people I met made every challenge worthwhile.

If you’re looking for an adventure that combines rugged terrain, cultural immersion, and a true test of endurance, I can’t recommend the Trans Dinarica enough. Whether you’re an experienced bikepacker or just love a good challenge, this route offers an unforgettable experience through one of Europe’s most underrated regions.

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. ‍♂️

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This web page was produced by Good Place and is developed with the support of the American people through the United States Agency for International Development (USAID) and the regional Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE) Project.
The contents are responsibility of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of USAID or the United States Government.

Trans Dinarica