My experience on the Trans Dinarica as a solo female cyclist
When I tell people that Western Balkans are my favourite cycling destination, I often get the same question: Is it safe for women to cycle solo in the Balkans?
Story and photos by: Joanna Chmara (follow her instagram for more inspiration)

Just when you think there’s no one around, the dogs join you and ask for their share of your snack.
Cycling solo in unfamiliar regions naturally brings some anxiety. The less we know about a place, the more we worry. Our friends and family don’t always help. With little knowledge and many preconceptions about the Balkans, people around you might be surprised or even concerned when you announce that you’d like to cycle Trans Dinarica solo.
Fears melted away with each cycling adventure
I remember having doubts and fears when I visited the Balkans in 2018 during my first-ever solo cycle tour. Yet, day by day, those fears were melting away as I experienced acts of kindness from strangers. My Couchsurfing hosts in Slovenia showed me the nicest spots by the Soča River, and an elderly Bosnian woman invited me into her house for a coffee. Whenever I went, people offered their help as if they felt they needed to protect a girl travelling alone.
Once, I almost ran out of water while crossing a crazy, muddy mountain pass in southern Albania. When I stopped in the only settlement on the way, a kindhearted family not only refilled my bottles but also insisted I take a break in their tiny house to have coffee, rakija, and delicious burek. Using Google Translate, we had a witty conversation, and they even offered me a room for the night in case I couldn’t get through the pass.
These encounters and the sense of real adventure were the reasons why I kept returning to the Balkans.
A proven route makes planning much easier
Since the creation of the Trans Dinarica route, cycling in the Balkans has become even easier. Before, there was always a sense of uncertainty: Was my path safe to cycle? Should I stay on the main road, or is this tiny mountain road on the map better? With Trans Dinarica and its reliable navigation, I had much more peace of mind.

I met family in Albania, and father wanted to experience what it was like to travel with a loaded bike.
Many solo female cyclists fear wild camping alone, preventing them from embarking on a solitary cycling adventure. On Trans Dinarica, you’ll quickly find a guest house, campsite, or affordable hotel at the end of every stage. So you don’t have to wild camp if you’re scared! It also allows you to interact with locals and experience the famous Balkan hospitality.
New to solo female cycling? Start in Slovenia and Croatia
If you’re new to solo cycling, I recommend starting in Slovenia or Croatia. These two countries have better infrastructure, and travelling there is generally more straightforward. If you’re from Western Europe, you’ll also find the culture more similar to your own than, for example, Bosnia and Herzegovina or Albania.
My biggest culture shock in Albania was the cafes in rural areas. Many of them were dominated by men who spent their days slowly sipping coffee in the company of other men. You’d likely get many stares if you entered one of those places as a woman. Nevertheless, I never felt threatened or in danger.

The weather while crossing the Sedlo in Durmitor National Park was not the kindest, but that created an even more dramatic and unforgettable scene.
Some sections of Trans Dinarica are pretty remote, so you must prepare to deal with unexpected emergencies independently. Carry an essential toolkit for your bike and learn how to fix the most common faults. Many girls feel intimidated by bike mechanics, but come on—if guys can do it, how hard can it be? I learned almost everything from the ParkTool YouTube channel, where all the repairs are explained in a detailed, understandable way.
Let’s be honest: travelling by bike isn’t (always) a romantic movie
Cycling solo is not always a bed of roses. Some days, you’ll find your life choices pushing your bike up a steep mountain pass or fixing a flat tyre in the middle of a storm. But the feeling of accomplishment you get from traversing the remote sections of the Dinaric Alps on your own is unparalleled.
During my last Trans Dinarica tour, I had the pleasure of meeting a few other girls who were cycling solo. It is inspiring to see more women find empowerment through bikepacking and cycle touring. So don’t let your fears stop you from having unforgettable adventures and exploring the most beautiful corners of Europe!